Having problem with bats? Deer in the garden? Armadillos burrowing in your yard?
Showing posts with label garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label garden. Show all posts
Monday, September 27, 2010
Dealing with Nuisance Wildlife
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Gardenias
Gardenias are not only about the visual beauty of bloom and leaf; gardenias are about fragrance. Gardenias also known as Cape Jessimine have been cultivated for hundreds of years for its scent.
According to Wikipedia, the gardenia originated in Asia and was named by John Ellis ,a British naturalist, for Dr. Alexander Garden of Charleston who practiced medicine there in the 1750's. Dr. Garden was also a noted botanist.
Depending on the cultivar, Gardenias vary in height from dwarfs(Gardenia Radicans) which grow to about 18 inches to other cultivars which can grow to up to six feet.Plant gardenias in a location with good are circulation and near patios, walks and windows to enjoy the fragrance and lovely foliage and flowers. Gardenias can be used in the landscape as screens, borders or groundcover, in mass plantings or as free standing specimens.
Gardenias grow best in partial shade in well drained,acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5) improved with organic matter such as compost, peat moss or manure to improve nutrient and moisture-holding capacity. Take soil samples for analysis by the County Extension Office to determine soil deficiencies. Generally, use of a fertilizer designed for azaleas should meet plants nutrient requirements,but check to make sure that the fertilizer contains the nutrients recommended in the soil analysis. Established plants do well with two to three applications of fertilizer per year beginning in March, with the second application in September and a third during the summer.
Gardenias can be susceptible to aphids, mealy bugs, thrips, scale, whitefly and sooty mold. If you are unsure about the type of pest is infesting your plants,your should bring a specimen to the County Extension Office for identification. Mold can best be managed by controlling pests.
According to Wikipedia, the gardenia originated in Asia and was named by John Ellis ,a British naturalist, for Dr. Alexander Garden of Charleston who practiced medicine there in the 1750's. Dr. Garden was also a noted botanist.
Depending on the cultivar, Gardenias vary in height from dwarfs(Gardenia Radicans) which grow to about 18 inches to other cultivars which can grow to up to six feet.Plant gardenias in a location with good are circulation and near patios, walks and windows to enjoy the fragrance and lovely foliage and flowers. Gardenias can be used in the landscape as screens, borders or groundcover, in mass plantings or as free standing specimens.
Gardenias grow best in partial shade in well drained,acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5) improved with organic matter such as compost, peat moss or manure to improve nutrient and moisture-holding capacity. Take soil samples for analysis by the County Extension Office to determine soil deficiencies. Generally, use of a fertilizer designed for azaleas should meet plants nutrient requirements,but check to make sure that the fertilizer contains the nutrients recommended in the soil analysis. Established plants do well with two to three applications of fertilizer per year beginning in March, with the second application in September and a third during the summer.
Gardenias can be susceptible to aphids, mealy bugs, thrips, scale, whitefly and sooty mold. If you are unsure about the type of pest is infesting your plants,your should bring a specimen to the County Extension Office for identification. Mold can best be managed by controlling pests.
Pruning should be done after plants have finished blooming. New plants can be started from cuttings . The cuttings can be planted at any time, but are most successfully started if planted between June and September.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
March Tips for Ornamentals and Lawn
Here is a few tips from our UGA Thomas County Master Gardeners for the month of March.
• If you want flowers on your cactus, plant it in a small pot. Most cacti bloom sooner if root bound.
• Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of spring and new growth.
• Apply a pre-emergent herbicide before lawn weeds get started. These chemicals work by preventing the seed from germinating. It is important that the herbicides be applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.
• Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a dark area. Shade-loving ground covers such as variegated liriope. Ivies, euonymous and hosta, can be very effective for this.
• Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves and reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant some new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty and ambiance of your home.
• If you haven’t done it already, check stored tools and outdoor furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel wool, and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.
• If your tiller turns over sluggishly in spring, before trying to start it, move it to a sunny location and cover it with a black garbage bag for half an hour. A few minutes of solar heating will warm up the fluids and make starting easier.
• Some gardeners start seedlings in vermiculite purchased at garden supply stores, but this medium does not contain the nutrients needed for sustained growth, so seedlings should be transplanted to soil when the second pair of true leaves form.
• Catnip is a hardy plant, but grow it in a large pot or tub to contain its invasive growth.
• Don’t buy more chemicals than you can use in a season - - the smaller the bottle, the better. If you overbought in the past and have aged garden chemicals you no longer use, dispose of them according to local regulations. Do not pour them down the drain or into the ground as this can pollute the water systems, damage the soil and possibly injure or kill plants, people and animals that may come in contact with the chemicals.
• A child’s first garden should include sunflowers from seeds. The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably, and the strong seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20 feet in height with seed-head diameters of 2 feet to be in the running.
• Cover old stumps with soil to help hasten decay.
• Turn the compost pile and add manure.
• The most common nematodes are saprophytes that feed on decaying organic matter. They play a critical role maintaining the balance of nature in returning nutrients to the soil.
• Bluebells are superb for naturalizing in the same manner as daffodils but prefer a shadier location and will bloom even where they get no direct sun at all
• As tulip, narcissus and other large bulbs begin to emerge set pansy plants between them for added color.
• If weeds occur in bulb beds, do not cover them by cultivation. Pull them by hand so the bulbs and roots will not be disturbed.
• Don’t forget to fertilize naturalized bulbs in the spring as leaves emerge. Do not mow the area until the bulb foliage begins to die back.
• In your flower arrangements, avoid mixing cut daffodils with tulips. Daffodils produce a chemical “slime” that injures tulip blooms. If you wish to use two flowers in an arrangement, place the daffodils in another container for a day after cutting, then rinse off the stems and add to the vase of tulips. Adding 1 tablespoon of activated charcoal or 6 drops of bleach to each quart of water also helps.
• Reposition stepping stones that have heaved or sunk below grass level. Lift them up, spread sand in the low areas, and replace the rocks. A bed of sand under the stones will aid drainage and decrease having to do it again next year.
• Be aware that a brown plastic material that looks and feels like natural burlap, but does not break down in the soil, is now being used to wrap root balls of balled and burlapped plants. Synthetic materials enclosing the roots of trees and shrubs must be completely removed to ensure success of the transplants.
• Potted azaleas, available through Easter, will flower for two to three weeks, if the soil is kept slightly moist. Display in a cool (60 degrees F) bright location, and remove withered flowers. Unless you have room to experiment, discard when blooms fade since most florist azaleas are not hardy enough to be established outdoors.
• Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.
• Boxwood should be pruned by thinning the outer foliage of the plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.
• Prune spring-flowering shrubs after flowering is completed.
• Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant about four weeks before the average date of the late frost.
• Propagate deciduous shrubs, such as forsythia and winter jasmine, now by ground layering.
• If you want flowers on your cactus, plant it in a small pot. Most cacti bloom sooner if root bound.
• Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of spring and new growth.
• Apply a pre-emergent herbicide before lawn weeds get started. These chemicals work by preventing the seed from germinating. It is important that the herbicides be applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.
• Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a dark area. Shade-loving ground covers such as variegated liriope. Ivies, euonymous and hosta, can be very effective for this.
• Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves and reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant some new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty and ambiance of your home.
• If you haven’t done it already, check stored tools and outdoor furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel wool, and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.
• If your tiller turns over sluggishly in spring, before trying to start it, move it to a sunny location and cover it with a black garbage bag for half an hour. A few minutes of solar heating will warm up the fluids and make starting easier.
• Some gardeners start seedlings in vermiculite purchased at garden supply stores, but this medium does not contain the nutrients needed for sustained growth, so seedlings should be transplanted to soil when the second pair of true leaves form.
• Catnip is a hardy plant, but grow it in a large pot or tub to contain its invasive growth.
• Don’t buy more chemicals than you can use in a season - - the smaller the bottle, the better. If you overbought in the past and have aged garden chemicals you no longer use, dispose of them according to local regulations. Do not pour them down the drain or into the ground as this can pollute the water systems, damage the soil and possibly injure or kill plants, people and animals that may come in contact with the chemicals.
• A child’s first garden should include sunflowers from seeds. The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably, and the strong seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20 feet in height with seed-head diameters of 2 feet to be in the running.
• Cover old stumps with soil to help hasten decay.
• Turn the compost pile and add manure.
• The most common nematodes are saprophytes that feed on decaying organic matter. They play a critical role maintaining the balance of nature in returning nutrients to the soil.
• Bluebells are superb for naturalizing in the same manner as daffodils but prefer a shadier location and will bloom even where they get no direct sun at all
• As tulip, narcissus and other large bulbs begin to emerge set pansy plants between them for added color.
• If weeds occur in bulb beds, do not cover them by cultivation. Pull them by hand so the bulbs and roots will not be disturbed.
• Don’t forget to fertilize naturalized bulbs in the spring as leaves emerge. Do not mow the area until the bulb foliage begins to die back.
• In your flower arrangements, avoid mixing cut daffodils with tulips. Daffodils produce a chemical “slime” that injures tulip blooms. If you wish to use two flowers in an arrangement, place the daffodils in another container for a day after cutting, then rinse off the stems and add to the vase of tulips. Adding 1 tablespoon of activated charcoal or 6 drops of bleach to each quart of water also helps.
• Reposition stepping stones that have heaved or sunk below grass level. Lift them up, spread sand in the low areas, and replace the rocks. A bed of sand under the stones will aid drainage and decrease having to do it again next year.
• Be aware that a brown plastic material that looks and feels like natural burlap, but does not break down in the soil, is now being used to wrap root balls of balled and burlapped plants. Synthetic materials enclosing the roots of trees and shrubs must be completely removed to ensure success of the transplants.
• Potted azaleas, available through Easter, will flower for two to three weeks, if the soil is kept slightly moist. Display in a cool (60 degrees F) bright location, and remove withered flowers. Unless you have room to experiment, discard when blooms fade since most florist azaleas are not hardy enough to be established outdoors.
• Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.
• Boxwood should be pruned by thinning the outer foliage of the plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.
• Prune spring-flowering shrubs after flowering is completed.
• Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant about four weeks before the average date of the late frost.
• Propagate deciduous shrubs, such as forsythia and winter jasmine, now by ground layering.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Harvesting, Cleaning and Curing Gourds
More and more home gardeners are growing gourds for use in dried floral arrangements, bird houses, etc. The easy part is raising the gourds, the hard part is to determine when to pick them. If vines die prematurely before the fruit becomes hard it will be difficult to keep these for a very long period. In order to be successful with gourd storage, the gourds need to ripen on the vine. The best indication of a ripe gourd is the withered condition of the stem. Immature gourds that have frozen will not keep if storage is attempted.
There are several different types of gourds and each requires special handling methods. The most common Lagenaria gourds are often referred to as the dipper, caveman’s club, Giant bottle, Powder Horn, or Martin gourd. If fruits are dirty or dusty they can be washed in a mild soapy water and then rinsed with a solution of one part household bleach to ten parts water. Place gourds in a warm spot with good ventilation and out of direct sunlight until completely dry. Mature Lagenaria gourds may only require curing, if so, place in a spot with a temperature of 60 to 85 degrees F and with low humidity. Immature Lagenarias may be hung by a string attached to the stem and placed in a well ventilated, out-of-the-way place since they may require several months to completely cure.
If gourds are to be painted, shellacked, waxed or lacquered the surface must be completely dry. The Lagenarias may have a surface mold present and this can be removed before painting or waxing by soaking in warm water for a few minutes and then the mold can be removed by scraping with a knife blade. Dry gourd again before spraying with acrylic resin paint or waxed with a good liquid floor wax is applied.
Luffa cylindrical, also called the sponge or dish rag gourd, is grown mainly for the tough, fibrous netting that remains after the pulpy flesh is removed from mature fruit. The fibrous netting makes excellent sponges that are valued for use in the bath or as dish and pot scrubbers. Other important uses of the spongy material have been marine steam engine filters, doormats, table mats, mattress or shoulder pad stuffing, and for absorbing sound.
Luffas that are allowed to mature on the vine will turn from green to a dark tan or brown. At this time the internal fiber is mature and the gourd can be stored in a cool dry place until further processing of the gourd can be done.
The basic method for preparing the sponge material is to immerse the dry, mature fruit in water for a few days to allow the skin and flesh to soften so that it can be easily removed. Some additional drying may be required before the seeds will separate.
Once cleansed of seeds and flesh, the fibrous network is dried and, for some purposes bleached in hydrogen peroxide or one part bleach to nine parts water if a whiter color is desired. After soaking in bleach, rinse sponge and dry in full sun.
Cucurbita gourds (Apple, Bell, Egg, finger {Holy Crown}, Pear, Spoon, etc) usually ripen before other types and the fruit is ripe when the outside shell of the fruit has become hard. Lagenaria gourds on the other hand are ripe when they change colors from green to tan, are lightweight and have a firm shell.
There are several different types of gourds and each requires special handling methods. The most common Lagenaria gourds are often referred to as the dipper, caveman’s club, Giant bottle, Powder Horn, or Martin gourd. If fruits are dirty or dusty they can be washed in a mild soapy water and then rinsed with a solution of one part household bleach to ten parts water. Place gourds in a warm spot with good ventilation and out of direct sunlight until completely dry. Mature Lagenaria gourds may only require curing, if so, place in a spot with a temperature of 60 to 85 degrees F and with low humidity. Immature Lagenarias may be hung by a string attached to the stem and placed in a well ventilated, out-of-the-way place since they may require several months to completely cure.
If gourds are to be painted, shellacked, waxed or lacquered the surface must be completely dry. The Lagenarias may have a surface mold present and this can be removed before painting or waxing by soaking in warm water for a few minutes and then the mold can be removed by scraping with a knife blade. Dry gourd again before spraying with acrylic resin paint or waxed with a good liquid floor wax is applied.
Luffa cylindrical, also called the sponge or dish rag gourd, is grown mainly for the tough, fibrous netting that remains after the pulpy flesh is removed from mature fruit. The fibrous netting makes excellent sponges that are valued for use in the bath or as dish and pot scrubbers. Other important uses of the spongy material have been marine steam engine filters, doormats, table mats, mattress or shoulder pad stuffing, and for absorbing sound.
Luffas that are allowed to mature on the vine will turn from green to a dark tan or brown. At this time the internal fiber is mature and the gourd can be stored in a cool dry place until further processing of the gourd can be done.
The basic method for preparing the sponge material is to immerse the dry, mature fruit in water for a few days to allow the skin and flesh to soften so that it can be easily removed. Some additional drying may be required before the seeds will separate.
Once cleansed of seeds and flesh, the fibrous network is dried and, for some purposes bleached in hydrogen peroxide or one part bleach to nine parts water if a whiter color is desired. After soaking in bleach, rinse sponge and dry in full sun.
Cucurbita gourds (Apple, Bell, Egg, finger {Holy Crown}, Pear, Spoon, etc) usually ripen before other types and the fruit is ripe when the outside shell of the fruit has become hard. Lagenaria gourds on the other hand are ripe when they change colors from green to tan, are lightweight and have a firm shell.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Stop Blossom-End Rot Now, It's Easier Now Than Later
Too many tomatoes and bell peppers grown in home gardens are lost each year to a condition called blossom-end rot. Blossom -end rot is a disorder found on fruit near the blossom end and first appears as a darkened, sunken, leathery scar. This condition usually causes the fruit to ripen prematurely and makes it worthless.
Blossom-end rot can be caused by several factors and the severity of this condition can be compounded when two or more of these factors interact with each other. It is known that inadequate calcium levels in the fruit can cause this condition and a low soil calcium level in combination with inadequate soil can compound the situation. Severely pruned tomato plants are more prone to develop blossom-end rot than unpruned plants.
In order to control blossom-end rot, the home gardener will need to take several steps and one needs t0 start early, even before the crop is planed if his condition is to be prevented.
4. Apply irrigation water to keep soil uniformly moist throughout the season.
5. Apply a calcium spray, first applied when fruits are first visible can help prevent this disorder. Mix four tablespoons of calcium chloride per gallon of water. Spray plants until solution begins to run off the leaves. Three applications are recommended at seven(7) day intervals. Calcium can be obtained at your local garden center or supply store.
Blossom-end rot can be caused by several factors and the severity of this condition can be compounded when two or more of these factors interact with each other. It is known that inadequate calcium levels in the fruit can cause this condition and a low soil calcium level in combination with inadequate soil can compound the situation. Severely pruned tomato plants are more prone to develop blossom-end rot than unpruned plants.
In order to control blossom-end rot, the home gardener will need to take several steps and one needs t0 start early, even before the crop is planed if his condition is to be prevented.
Steps to control blossom-end rot:
1. Test the soil early in the spring and apply dolomitic lime if needed. This should be done several weeks before planting.
2. In gardens where this condition has been severe in past seasons, also broadcast five lbs. of dolomitic lime per 100 square feet just before planting and plow the ground six(6) to eight(8) inches deep.
2. In gardens where this condition has been severe in past seasons, also broadcast five lbs. of dolomitic lime per 100 square feet just before planting and plow the ground six(6) to eight(8) inches deep.
3. Mulch plants with black or organic mulch.
4. Apply irrigation water to keep soil uniformly moist throughout the season.
5. Apply a calcium spray, first applied when fruits are first visible can help prevent this disorder. Mix four tablespoons of calcium chloride per gallon of water. Spray plants until solution begins to run off the leaves. Three applications are recommended at seven(7) day intervals. Calcium can be obtained at your local garden center or supply store.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
COFFEE GROUNDS FOR FERTILIZER
Used coffee grounds are a fertilizer for your plants and a great addition to Compost piles. You may add them to either existing or brand new plant beds.
Many gardeners compost their leaves, grass clippers and trimmings from their yard. The soil can be improved and more productive by mixing organic matter into the soil. Kitchen waste such as vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea leaves and eggshells may be added to the compost pile. Coffee grounds added to the compost pile help maintain the nitrogen balance which is import for decomposition of the organic materials in compost.
Coffee grounds can be applied directly to acid loving plants like blueberries, hydrangeas, azaleas, roses and tomato plants. Ground coffee is high in nitrogen, making it a good mulch for fast growing vegetables. Coffee contains a number of substances that promote healthy plant growth. Work coffee grounds into the soil so that they don’t form a crust on the top.
Coffee grounds are a source of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium. These nutrients are beneficial to the plants in your garden. Using the grounds is an environmentally friendly and cost effective way to nourish plants.
Increase carrot and radish harvest by mixing seeds with dry coffee grounds before planting the seed.
Coffee grounds may be used on indoor plants too or use left over coffee to water indoor plants.
An analysis of coffee grounds was performed in 1995 by the University of Washington, College of Forest Resources, the
Primary Nutrients are:
Nitrogen 1.45%
Phosphorus not a significant amount
Potassium 1204 UG/G
Secondary Nutrients
Calcium 389 UG/G
Magnesium 448 UG/G
Sulfur high UG /G
Terms: UG/G=microgram/gram
In summary, coffee grounds can lower pH and add organic matter to soil. Coffee grounds can be sourced from your home or you may be able to find used grounds at your local restaurant or coffee shop.
Many gardeners compost their leaves, grass clippers and trimmings from their yard. The soil can be improved and more productive by mixing organic matter into the soil. Kitchen waste such as vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea leaves and eggshells may be added to the compost pile. Coffee grounds added to the compost pile help maintain the nitrogen balance which is import for decomposition of the organic materials in compost.
Coffee grounds can be applied directly to acid loving plants like blueberries, hydrangeas, azaleas, roses and tomato plants. Ground coffee is high in nitrogen, making it a good mulch for fast growing vegetables. Coffee contains a number of substances that promote healthy plant growth. Work coffee grounds into the soil so that they don’t form a crust on the top.
Coffee grounds are a source of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium. These nutrients are beneficial to the plants in your garden. Using the grounds is an environmentally friendly and cost effective way to nourish plants.
Increase carrot and radish harvest by mixing seeds with dry coffee grounds before planting the seed.
Coffee grounds may be used on indoor plants too or use left over coffee to water indoor plants.
An analysis of coffee grounds was performed in 1995 by the University of Washington, College of Forest Resources, the
Primary Nutrients are:
Nitrogen 1.45%
Phosphorus not a significant amount
Potassium 1204 UG/G
Secondary Nutrients
Calcium 389 UG/G
Magnesium 448 UG/G
Sulfur high UG /G
Terms: UG/G=microgram/gram
In summary, coffee grounds can lower pH and add organic matter to soil. Coffee grounds can be sourced from your home or you may be able to find used grounds at your local restaurant or coffee shop.
TAKING SOIL SAMPLES
Does your soil have the necessary nutrients for a lush lawn and beautiful gardens? Do not guess about your lawn’s and gardens’ fertility—have your soil tested!
To get good soil samples first make sure your sampling tools are clean ;then take soil from a minimum of ten(10) random locations in the sample area and mix together in a clean container. For lawns sample to a depth of four (4) inches and for gardens, ornamentals, and mixed fruit trees and wildlife plots collect samples to a depth of six (6) inches. Cut a thin slice about ¼ inch thick, two inches wide and to the depth specified above. Combine and mix samples and let dry. Place the soil samples in the UGA soil sample bags available at your County Extension Office. The County Extension Office will send the samples to the UGA Soil Testing Lab and once the tests are completed you will receive a Soil Test Report which will provide an interpretation of all soil tests done and recommendations concerning appropriate nutrient and lime recommendations.
Soils can be tested any time of year. Late fall and winter are excellent times to prepare for spring since it takes two to three months for recommended nutrients such as lime or sulfur to change the soil’s pH. Once medium or high fertility levels are achieved, the soil should be tested every two (2) to three (3) years.
To view the University of Georgia’s publication on soil sampling visit:
http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C896/C896.htm
To get good soil samples first make sure your sampling tools are clean ;then take soil from a minimum of ten(10) random locations in the sample area and mix together in a clean container. For lawns sample to a depth of four (4) inches and for gardens, ornamentals, and mixed fruit trees and wildlife plots collect samples to a depth of six (6) inches. Cut a thin slice about ¼ inch thick, two inches wide and to the depth specified above. Combine and mix samples and let dry. Place the soil samples in the UGA soil sample bags available at your County Extension Office. The County Extension Office will send the samples to the UGA Soil Testing Lab and once the tests are completed you will receive a Soil Test Report which will provide an interpretation of all soil tests done and recommendations concerning appropriate nutrient and lime recommendations.
Soils can be tested any time of year. Late fall and winter are excellent times to prepare for spring since it takes two to three months for recommended nutrients such as lime or sulfur to change the soil’s pH. Once medium or high fertility levels are achieved, the soil should be tested every two (2) to three (3) years.
To view the University of Georgia’s publication on soil sampling visit:
http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C896/C896.htm
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Master Gardener Class - Rescheduled
Thomas County Extension will offer a Master Gardener Class beginning in March 2010. All classes will be held at the Thomas County Extension Office, 227 West Jefferson Street. The class has been reschduled for March 2010 so there is more time to sign up if you missed the previous deadline!
The new deadline is Thursday, February 25, 2010.
Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. You may download an application here.
The Georgia Master Gardener Program is a volunteer recruitment and training program of the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension. The main purpose is to train volunteers to provide unbiased, research-based, environmentally sound, horticulture information to the public. Those completing the course will have a much greater knowledge of horticultural practices and will be expected to share their knowledge by volunteering 50 hours back into the community.
Most potential Master Gardeners want to know what community service entails. Community service is any activity in which your newly acquired horticultural knowledge is shared with others. These activities may include advising other citizens with caring for their landscapes, writing horticultural newsletters, working with youth, assisting with beautification projects, judging school projects dealing with agriculture, or civic and garden club presentations.
Most classes will be taught by extension agents and specialists from the University of Georgia. The following classes will be taught:
Introduction to the Master Gardener Program
Soil and Plant Nutrition
Botany/Plant Physiology
Basic Entomology/Pathology
Weed ID and Control
Using the Pest Control Handbook
Vegetable and Herb Gardening
Insects and Diseases of Vegetables
Herbaceous Ornamentals
Selecting Woody Ornamentals
Trees
Maintenance of Woody Ornamentals
Turf Selection and Maintenance
Diseases of Turf and Ornamentals
Developing a Waterwise Landscape
Insects of Turf and Ornamentals
Composting and Mulching
Fruit Gardening
Structural and Household Pests
Nuisance Wildlife
Registration fee for this class is $125.00 which includes a copy of the Georgia Master Gardener Handbook. A minimum enrollment of 10 participants is required to conduct this training. Maximum enrollment is 20 participants. More details on the course will be given during sign-up and be posted on our blog and website.
The deadline to apply is Thursday, February 25, 2010. Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. You may download an application here.
If you have any questions, please contact R.J. Byrne, Thomas County Extension Agent at 229.225.4130 or rjbyrne@uga.edu.
The new deadline is Thursday, February 25, 2010.
Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. You may download an application here.
The Georgia Master Gardener Program is a volunteer recruitment and training program of the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension. The main purpose is to train volunteers to provide unbiased, research-based, environmentally sound, horticulture information to the public. Those completing the course will have a much greater knowledge of horticultural practices and will be expected to share their knowledge by volunteering 50 hours back into the community.
Most potential Master Gardeners want to know what community service entails. Community service is any activity in which your newly acquired horticultural knowledge is shared with others. These activities may include advising other citizens with caring for their landscapes, writing horticultural newsletters, working with youth, assisting with beautification projects, judging school projects dealing with agriculture, or civic and garden club presentations.
Most classes will be taught by extension agents and specialists from the University of Georgia. The following classes will be taught:
Introduction to the Master Gardener Program
Soil and Plant Nutrition
Botany/Plant Physiology
Basic Entomology/Pathology
Weed ID and Control
Using the Pest Control Handbook
Vegetable and Herb Gardening
Insects and Diseases of Vegetables
Herbaceous Ornamentals
Selecting Woody Ornamentals
Trees
Maintenance of Woody Ornamentals
Turf Selection and Maintenance
Diseases of Turf and Ornamentals
Developing a Waterwise Landscape
Insects of Turf and Ornamentals
Composting and Mulching
Fruit Gardening
Structural and Household Pests
Nuisance Wildlife
Registration fee for this class is $125.00 which includes a copy of the Georgia Master Gardener Handbook. A minimum enrollment of 10 participants is required to conduct this training. Maximum enrollment is 20 participants. More details on the course will be given during sign-up and be posted on our blog and website.
The deadline to apply is Thursday, February 25, 2010. Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. You may download an application here.
If you have any questions, please contact R.J. Byrne, Thomas County Extension Agent at 229.225.4130 or rjbyrne@uga.edu.
Monday, January 25, 2010
Do you have a garden plan for 2010?
So if you are planning to plant a garden this year in Thomas County, then let me help you out some.
Take some time to think about what has worked well for you this past year and also maybe think about trying something new.
Its time to pull soil samples if you have not yet done so. We have soil test bags in our office, just bring in a sample to transfer to the sample bag. A basic soil test [pH, P, K, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese] is currently $6.00.
Visit our site to find a very helpful garden calendar here:
http://www.ugaextension.com/thomas/anr/VegetableandFruitGardening.html
As always, you can contact us for more help if you need to.
Take some time to think about what has worked well for you this past year and also maybe think about trying something new.
Its time to pull soil samples if you have not yet done so. We have soil test bags in our office, just bring in a sample to transfer to the sample bag. A basic soil test [pH, P, K, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese] is currently $6.00.
Visit our site to find a very helpful garden calendar here:
http://www.ugaextension.com/thomas/anr/VegetableandFruitGardening.html
As always, you can contact us for more help if you need to.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Composting: Recycling Landscape Trimmings
What do you need to know about composting landscape trimings?
Visit this publication to find out: http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C981/C981.html
Citizens throughout Georgia are recycling newspaper, cans, glass and plastic in an effort to divert these materials from the waste stream. Another important part of waste reduction involves recycling leaves, lawn clippings, and tree and shrub trimmings instead of placing them curbside for the county or municipality to pick up. These landscape riches from Mother Nature can be easily recycled and turned into nutrient-rich organic matter right in your backyard through a process called composting.
This publication answers some commonly asked questions about composting.
Monday, January 11, 2010
Flowering Bulbs for Georgia Gardens
Visit this link below for a new publication on "Flowering Bulbs for Georgia Gardens"
A wide variety of bulbs grow well in Georgia. Most are grown for their flowers and some for their foliage. They are grown as pot plants, in shrub borders, naturalistic plantings and in mass displays. Bulbs offer a certain magic to the landscape virtually unrivaled by other plants.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Name That Insect: Swallow Tail Larva
I have had several samples the past few days and they have all been the same insect. Well, larva actually, larva of the swallow tail butterfly.
The hosts of the giant swallow tail butterfly, Papilio cresphontes, include citrus, prickly ash, and hop trees. A common name of larva is the orange dog.
See the photos below to help you ID if your larva is the same.
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The hosts of the giant swallow tail butterfly, Papilio cresphontes, include citrus, prickly ash, and hop trees. A common name of larva is the orange dog.
See the photos below to help you ID if your larva is the same.
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Saturday, July 4, 2009
Thomas County Extension Prison Garden Project makes UGA's Homepage
UGA Thomas County Extension Agent R.J. Byrne makes the homepage of http://www.uga.edu/ with the news of the prison garden project at the Thomas County Prison.
The full story is online at http://www.uga.edu/. Thanks to the help of the Thomas County Master Gardeners this project has been a success. The story is archived under the UGA's Competing in a Global Economy - http://www.uga.edu/aboutUGA/compete-prison_garden.html
The full story is online at http://www.uga.edu/. Thanks to the help of the Thomas County Master Gardeners this project has been a success. The story is archived under the UGA's Competing in a Global Economy - http://www.uga.edu/aboutUGA/compete-prison_garden.html
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Thomas County Prison Vegetable Garden Project
Thomas County Extension Agent R.J. Byrne and Thomas County Prison Warden Robert Greer have started a vegetable garden at the Thomas County Prison.
Byrne and the Thomas County Master Gardeners will work with the Warden and the inmates to grow and harvest vegetables at the prison garden to reduce prison food costs and help teach inmates a new skill. Goals of this pilot project include helping to reduce food costs and expanding the size of the garden in future years.
Inmates grow their veggies in Thomasville
By Christian Jennings -
THOMASVILLE, GA (WALB) - Thomas county inmates have a new horticulture detail...their new vegetable garden on prison property off County Farm Road needs people to tend it.
That garden could end up saving tens of thousands of dollars in food costs.
It's not your typical garden. Here farmers are replaced with inmates and they're growing vegetables they'll eat at the prison dinner table.
"Today we're starting the planting," said RJ Byrne.
Thomas County extension agent RJ Byrne and Warden Robert Greer came up with the idea as a unique way to cope with rising food costs.
"On a weekly basis we spend about $5,000 for a week of food supply and of that probably $1000 or more in vegetables, in produce and we invested probably less than $1000 in this project," said Warden Greer.
Here's an example of how much the prison will save. One kernel of corn produces three ears of corn. And the warden only paid ten dollars for a four pound bag.
Now compare that with what you pay at the farmer's market. Here corn is two for a dollar.
"We're going to grow corn, squash, tomatoes, beans, peppers, okra, and cucumbers," said Byrne.
But the soon to be colorful, delicious vegetables will benefit more than just you, the taxpayer. They'll provide inmates with a new skill to take with them when they leave their cell.
"They're really interested in the garden and a lot of them are already volunteering to be on a permanent detail for this," said the Warden.
"It's going to save money and these guys are going to be able to watch these grow and eat the reward," said Byrne.
But until then, these inmates are just planting seeds of saving.
The inmate's garden is just a pilot project right now.
The warden and extension agents will show the garden and the cost savings to county commissioners soon and hope to expand the garden with their support.
Byrne and the Thomas County Master Gardeners will work with the Warden and the inmates to grow and harvest vegetables at the prison garden to reduce prison food costs and help teach inmates a new skill. Goals of this pilot project include helping to reduce food costs and expanding the size of the garden in future years.
Inmates grow their veggies in Thomasville
By Christian Jennings -
THOMASVILLE, GA (WALB) - Thomas county inmates have a new horticulture detail...their new vegetable garden on prison property off County Farm Road needs people to tend it.
That garden could end up saving tens of thousands of dollars in food costs.
It's not your typical garden. Here farmers are replaced with inmates and they're growing vegetables they'll eat at the prison dinner table.
"Today we're starting the planting," said RJ Byrne.
Thomas County extension agent RJ Byrne and Warden Robert Greer came up with the idea as a unique way to cope with rising food costs.
"On a weekly basis we spend about $5,000 for a week of food supply and of that probably $1000 or more in vegetables, in produce and we invested probably less than $1000 in this project," said Warden Greer.
Here's an example of how much the prison will save. One kernel of corn produces three ears of corn. And the warden only paid ten dollars for a four pound bag.
Now compare that with what you pay at the farmer's market. Here corn is two for a dollar.
"We're going to grow corn, squash, tomatoes, beans, peppers, okra, and cucumbers," said Byrne.
But the soon to be colorful, delicious vegetables will benefit more than just you, the taxpayer. They'll provide inmates with a new skill to take with them when they leave their cell.
"They're really interested in the garden and a lot of them are already volunteering to be on a permanent detail for this," said the Warden.
"It's going to save money and these guys are going to be able to watch these grow and eat the reward," said Byrne.
But until then, these inmates are just planting seeds of saving.
The inmate's garden is just a pilot project right now.
The warden and extension agents will show the garden and the cost savings to county commissioners soon and hope to expand the garden with their support.
Friday, March 13, 2009
New season of 'Gardening in Georgia' coming to GPB
For winning gardening advice, tune into the new season of “Gardening in Georgia with Walter Reeves,” starting Saturday, April 4. The show’s 10th season will air on Georgia Public Broadcasting stations across the state each Saturday at 12:30 p.m., repeating Saturdays at 6:30 p.m. and again on Wednesdays at 7 p.m. through the end of October.
Story Number: 3678To review this article and/or download a version of it, click on the link below:http://georgiafaces.caes.uga.edu/storypage.cfm?storyid=3678
Story Number: 3678To review this article and/or download a version of it, click on the link below:http://georgiafaces.caes.uga.edu/storypage.cfm?storyid=3678
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
2009 edition of annual UGA Spring Garden Packet
Welcome to the 34th annual Spring Garden Packet. Put out each year by the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, this edition has 25 feature articles written by 14 CAES faculty members, news editors and graduate and undergraduate students to provide timely, valuable gardening information.
The Gardening information can be found here.
The Gardening information can be found here.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Growing Bigleaf Hydrangea
Bigleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea macrophylla, also called French, Japanese or Snowball hydrangea, is both a florist plant and landscape plant in Georgia. Often purchased as a gift plant from florists, bigleaf hydrangea can be transplanted to the landscape for repeat blooms each year. Homeowners delight in changing the flower color from pink to blue or from blue to pink by adjusting the pH of their soil.
Check here for the Hydrangea publication.Thinking of planting some Flowering Perennials?
With spring around the corner, you might be thinking of planting the flower bed soon.
Check out University of Georgia Horticulture specialist Dr. Paul Thomas's publication -
Flowering Perennials for Georgia Gardens
Here is a sample of the publication:
"Plants are classed according to their growth cycle as annuals, biennials or perennials. Annuals are short-lived plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. Biennials normally do not bloom until the second season, form seeds and then die. Perennials live from year to year, with varying bloom times.
Perennials are also classed as woody (trees and shrubs that produce woody above-ground stems and branches that live from year to year) or herbaceous (plants that produce comparatively soft tissues which often die back to ground level at the end of the growing season). Herbaceous perennials persist by means of various underground storage structures—bulbs, corms, tubers, tuberous stems, tuberous roots and crowns.
The distinction between annuals and perennials, woody and herbaceous, is not always sharply defined because climate influences growth potential. Further, those biennials and perennials that bloom the first year along with tender perennials (those actually killed by frost) are often treated as annuals in the landscape.
This publication is devoted specifically to herbaceous perennials (subsequently referred to simply as perennials), primarily to those that persist from crowns and/or fleshy roots. For information on bulbous-type herbaceous perennials (daffodil, canna, dahlia, etc.), refer to Extension bulletin 918, Flowering Bulbs for Georgia Gardens. "
Check out University of Georgia Horticulture specialist Dr. Paul Thomas's publication -
Flowering Perennials for Georgia Gardens
Here is a sample of the publication:
"Plants are classed according to their growth cycle as annuals, biennials or perennials. Annuals are short-lived plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season. Biennials normally do not bloom until the second season, form seeds and then die. Perennials live from year to year, with varying bloom times.
Perennials are also classed as woody (trees and shrubs that produce woody above-ground stems and branches that live from year to year) or herbaceous (plants that produce comparatively soft tissues which often die back to ground level at the end of the growing season). Herbaceous perennials persist by means of various underground storage structures—bulbs, corms, tubers, tuberous stems, tuberous roots and crowns.
The distinction between annuals and perennials, woody and herbaceous, is not always sharply defined because climate influences growth potential. Further, those biennials and perennials that bloom the first year along with tender perennials (those actually killed by frost) are often treated as annuals in the landscape.
This publication is devoted specifically to herbaceous perennials (subsequently referred to simply as perennials), primarily to those that persist from crowns and/or fleshy roots. For information on bulbous-type herbaceous perennials (daffodil, canna, dahlia, etc.), refer to Extension bulletin 918, Flowering Bulbs for Georgia Gardens. "
Sunday, January 25, 2009
How to start a spring vegetable garden
Local Market Gardeners' Forum on starting a spring vegetable garden
So you want to grow your own food?
Learn from the local market gardeners… how to start a spring vegetable garden
The forum will feature a panel of local market gardeners presenting an evening of practitioner tips from 6:00 to 7:30 pm, and then answering questions until 8:30 pm.
The purpose of this forum -- and related classes, forums and tours to come -- is to provide timely and useful information for the preparation, tending and and successful harvest of single-family, multi-family, neighborhood and community vegetable gardens. These programs will be designed to assist those who want to grow their own healthy food to eat.
We are fortunate to have some experienced CSA growers and market gardeners in the greater Tallahassee area willing to share their knowledge with other folks who want to grow what they eat, and eat what they grow.
Thursday, February 12th 6:00 – 8:30 pm
Leon County Extension Center
615 Paul Russell Road Tallahassee, Florida
Cost: $2.00 person, $3.00 couple
Call Genice Harris at 850‐606‐5202 to reserve a seat!
NOTE: Please note that this is at the Leon County Extension office in Tallahassee, FL and not the Thomasville - Thomas County Extension Office.
- R.J.
So you want to grow your own food?
Learn from the local market gardeners… how to start a spring vegetable garden
The forum will feature a panel of local market gardeners presenting an evening of practitioner tips from 6:00 to 7:30 pm, and then answering questions until 8:30 pm.
The purpose of this forum -- and related classes, forums and tours to come -- is to provide timely and useful information for the preparation, tending and and successful harvest of single-family, multi-family, neighborhood and community vegetable gardens. These programs will be designed to assist those who want to grow their own healthy food to eat.
We are fortunate to have some experienced CSA growers and market gardeners in the greater Tallahassee area willing to share their knowledge with other folks who want to grow what they eat, and eat what they grow.
Thursday, February 12th 6:00 – 8:30 pm
Leon County Extension Center
615 Paul Russell Road Tallahassee, Florida
Cost: $2.00 person, $3.00 couple
Call Genice Harris at 850‐606‐5202 to reserve a seat!
NOTE: Please note that this is at the Leon County Extension office in Tallahassee, FL and not the Thomasville - Thomas County Extension Office.
- R.J.
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