Scale Insects

Check out the photo. Do you see the white scale insect on this Pittosporum? That is a Cottony Cushion Scale insect at the adult stage. Pittosporum and citrus plants are typically their hosts.

Control can be done in a few ways:

- with horticultural oil, however crawler stage is the best time

- pruning, remove and destroy infested branches

- natural enemies such as tiny wasps

For more information visit:

1. UGA's Urban Ag Scale info

2. UF's Scale Info

3. Scale Insects and Mealybugs on Ornamental Plants

You can also email us at the office (uge4275@uga.edu) or visit with our Master Gardeners for more help.

Dealing with Nuisance Wildlife

Having problem with bats? Deer in the garden? Armadillos burrowing in your yard?

When wildlife populate a place where they are unwanted or cause damage to valuable plants or structures, they become a nuisance. This publication discusses some basic principles for dealing humanely with nuisance wildlife.

View this publication here.

ARMYWORMS MARCH ACROSS GEORGIA LAWNS

By William G. Hudson

Almost every year in late summer, caterpillars invade turfgrass across Georgia. Damage to established turf is mostly aesthetic, but newly planted sod or sprigged areas can be severely damaged or even killed.

Several caterpillars can damage turfgrass, but in late summer most of the problems are caused by fall armyworms. Their favorite turf to feed upon is bermudagrass.

Eggs hatch in just days

Adult armyworm moths are active at night. Females lay eggs in masses of 50 to several hundred. Eggs hatch in a few days, and the young larvae begin to feed on leaf tissue. As the worms grow, they consume entire leaves of grass.
Armyworms are most active early and late in the day, spending the hotter hours down near the soil in the shade. Larvae feed for 2 to 3 weeks before pupating in the soil.

Moths emerge 10 to 14 days later. The entire life cycle -- from egg to adult moth -- takes about 28 days in the warm weather of August and September.

Weather conditions fuel the development of armyworms, said University of Georgia Assistant State Climatologist Pam Knox. Some UGA Cooperative Extension agents report this seaso as the worst they have seen in 25 years, she said.
"They devastate pastures and hayfields in locations across the state," Knox said.

Do the soap test

To see if worms are present, perform this simple test: Pour soapy water on the grass (one-half ounce of dishwashing soap per gallon of water). If the worms are present, they will quickly surface.

Controlling armyworms and other turf caterpillars is relatively simple once the problem is identified. The old standby carbaryl (Sevin) still works well, as do all the pyrethroids (pyrethroids are those active ingredients listed on a label that end in "-thrin").

If the worms are detected while they are still small, Dipel or other Bacillus thurengiensis-based products provide good control.

Treat at night

Since armyworms are most active late in the day and at night, applications should be made as late in the evening as possible. It is not necessary to water after application, but an application rate of 20 to 25 gallons of solution per acre as a minimum will ensure good coverage. Do not cut the grass for 1 to 3 days after application.

For more information on maintaining turfgrasses in Georgia, visit www.Georgiaturf.com.

Identified Benefits of Community Trees and Forests

By Kim Coder, Professor, Silvics/Ecology, Warnell School of Forest Resources, The University of Georgia

Community trees and forests are valuable. To the 75% of the United States population that now live in urban and suburban areas, trees provide many goods and services. Values are realized by the people that own the trees, by people nearby, and by society in general. People plant, maintain, conserve, and covet trees because of the values and benefits generated.

Tree benefits can be listed in many forms. The bottom-line is humans derive not a single-user value from community trees and forests, but a multi-product / multi-value benefit. Some of these benefits stem from components and attributes of a single tree, while other benefits are derived from groups of trees functioning together. What is the value of these multiple benefits? A 1985 study concluded that the annual ecological contribution of an average community tree was $270.

Values, functions, goods and services produced by community trees and forests can be evaluated for economic and quality of life components. While quality of life values are difficult to quantify, some of the economic values can suggest current and future negative or positive cash flows. In assessing changes in dollar values, concerns for tree evaluation are most prevalent within: risk management costs (liability and safety); value-added / capital increases to tree values; appreciation of tree and forest assets; maintenance costs of tree and forest assets; and, level of management effectiveness and efficiency (total quality management of community trees and forests -- TTQM).

Below are listed a selected series of goods, services, and benefits community trees across the nation and forests provide. These bullets of information are taken from a diversity of individual research projects and, as such, are individually meaningless except under similar conditions. These items together do suggest trends and concepts of value.
Environmental Benefits
Temperature and Energy Use

* Community heat islands (3 to 10°F warmer than surrounding countryside) exist because of decreased wind, increased high density surfaces, and heat generated from human associated activities, all of which requires addition energy expenditures to off-set. Trees can be successfully used to mitigate heat islands.
* Trees reduce temperatures by shading surfaces, dissipating heat through evaporation, and controlling air movement responsible for advected heat.

Shade

* 20°F lower temperature on a site from trees.
* 35°F lower hard surface temperature under tree shade than in full summer sun.
* 27% decrease in summer cooling costs with trees.
* 75% cooling savings under deciduous trees.
* 50% cooling energy savings with trees. (1980) 20°F lower room temperatures in uninsulated house during summer from tree shade.
* $242 savings per home per year in cooling costs with trees.
* West wall shading is the best cooling cost savings component.
* South side shade trees saved $38 per home per year.
* 10% energy savings when cooling equipment shaded (no air flow reduction).
* 12% increase in heating costs under evergreen canopy
* 15% heating energy savings with trees. (1980)
* 5% higher winter energy use under tree shade
* $122 increase in annual heating costs with south and east wall shading off-set by $155 annual savings in cooling costs.
* Crown form and amount of light passing through a tree can be adjusted by crown reduction and thinning.
* Shade areas generated by trees are equivalent to $2.75 per square foot of value (1975 dollars).

Wind Control

* 50% wind speed reduction by shade trees yielded 7% reduction in heating energy in winter.
* 8% reduction in heating energy in home from deciduous trees although solar gain was reduced.
* $50 per year decrease in heating costs from tree control of wind.
* Trees block winter winds and reduces "chill factor."
* Trees can reduce cold air infiltration and exchange in a house by maintaining a reduced wind or still area.
* Trees can be planted to funnel or baffle wind away from areas -- both vertical and horizontal concentrations of foliage can modify air movement patterns.
* Blockage of cooling breezes by trees increased by $75 per year cooling energy use.

Active Evaporation

* 65% of heat generated in full sunlight on a tree is dissipated by active evaporation from leaf surfaces.
* 17% reduction in building cooling by active evaporation by trees.
* One acre of vegetation transpires as much as 1600 gallons of water on sunny summer days.
* 30% vegetation coverage will provide 66% as much cooling to a site as full vegetation coverage.
* A one-fifth acre house lot with 30% vegetation cover dissipates as much heat as running two central air conditioners.

Air Quality

Trees help control pollution through acting as biological and physical nets, but they are also poisoned by pollution.
Oxygen Production
One acre of trees generates enough oxygen each day for 18 people.
Pollution Reduction

* Community forests cleanse the air by intercepting and slowing particulate materials causing them to fall out, and by absorbing pollutant gases on surfaces and through uptake onto inner leaf surfaces.
* Pollutants partially controlled by trees include nitrogen oxides, sulfur dioxides, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide (required for normal tree function), ozone, and small particulates less than 10 microns in size.
* Removal of particulates amounts to 9% across deciduous trees and 13% across evergreen trees.
* Pollen and mold spore, are part of a living system and produced in tree areas, but trees also sweep out of the air large amounts of these particulates.
* In one urban park (212 ha), tree cover was found to remove daily 48 lbs particulates, 9 lbs nitrogen dioxide, 6 lbs sulfur dioxide, and ½ lbs carbon monoxide. ($136 per day value based upon pollution control technology).
* 60% reduction in street level particulates with trees.
* One sugar maple (one foot in diameter) along a roadway removes in one growing season 60 mg cadmium, 140 mg chromium, 820 mg nickel and 5200mg lead from the environment.
* Interiorscape trees can remove organic pollutants from indoor air

Carbon Dioxide Reduction

* Approximately 800 million tons of carbon are currently stored in US community forests with 6.5 million tons per year increase in storage ($22 billion equivalent in control costs).
* A single tree stores on average 13 pounds of carbon annually.
* A community forest can store 2.6 tons of carbon per acre per year.

Hydrology

* Development increases hard, non-evaporative surfaces and decreases soil infiltration -- increases water volume, velocity and pollution load of run-off -- increases water quality losses, erosion, and flooding.
* Community tree and forest cover intercepts, slows, evaporates, and stores water through normal tree functions, soil surface protection, and soil area of biologically active surfaces.

Water Run-Off

* 7% of winter precipitation intercepted and evaporated by deciduous trees.
* 22% of winter precipitation intercepted and evaporated by evergreen trees.
* 18% of growing season precipitation intercepted and evaporated by all trees.
* For every 5% of tree cover area added to a community, run-off is reduced by approximately 2%
* 7% volume reduction in six-hour storm flow by community tree canopies.
* 17% (11.3 million gallons) run-off reduction from a twelve-hour storm with tree canopies in a medium-sized city ($226,000 avoided run-off water control costs).

Water Quality / Erosion

* Community trees and forests act as filters removing nutrients and sediments while increasing ground water recharge.
* 37,500 tons of sediment per square mile per year comes off of developing and developed landscapes -- trees could reduce this value by 95% ($336,000 annual control cost savings with trees).
* 47% of surface pollutants are removed in first 15 minutes of storm -- this includes pesticides, fertilizers, and biologically derived materials and litter.
* 10,886 tons of soil saved annually with tree cover in a medium-sized city.

Noise Abatement

* 7db noise reduction per 100 feet of forest due to trees by reflecting and absorbing sound energy (solid walls decrease sound by 15 db)
* Trees provide "white noise," the noise of the leaves and branches in the wind and associated natural sounds, that masks other man-caused sounds.

Glare Reduction

* Trees help control light scattering, light intensity, and modifies predominant wavelengths on a site.
* Trees block and reflect sunlight and artificial lights to minimize eye strain and frame lighted areas where needed for architectural emphasis, safety, and visibility.

Animal Habitats

* Wildlife values are derived from aesthetic, recreation, and educational uses.
* Lowest bird diversity is in areas of mowed lawn -- highest in area of large trees, greatest tree diversity, and brushy areas.
* Highest native bird populations in areas of highest native plant populations.
* Highly variable species attributes and needs must be identified to clearly determine tree and community tree and forest influences.
* Trees are living systems that interact with other living things in sharing and recycling resources -- as such, trees are living centers where living thing congregate and are concentrated.

Economic / Social / Psychological Benefits
Economic Stability

* Community trees and forests provide a business generating, and a positive real estate transaction appearance and atmosphere.
* Increased property values, increased tax revenues, increased income levels, faster real estate sales turn-over rates, shorter unoccupied periods, increased recruitment of buyers, increased jobs, increased worker productivity, and increased number of customers have all been linked to tree and landscape presence.
* Tree amenity values are a part of real estate prices.

Property Values -- Real Estate Comparisons

* Clearing unimproved lots is costlier than properly preserving trees.
* 6% ($2,686) total property value in tree cover.
* $9,500 higher sale values due to tree cover.
* 4% higher sale value with five trees in the front yard -- $257 per pine, $333 per hardwood, $336 per large tree, and $0 per small tree.
* $2,675 increase in sale price when adjacent to tree green space as compared to similar houses 200 feet away from green space.
* $4.20 decrease in residential sales price for every foot away from green space.
* 27% increase in development land values with trees present.
* 19% increase in property values with trees. (1971 & 1983)
* 27% increase in appraised land values with trees. (1973)
* 9% increase in property value for a single tree. (1981)

Property Values -- Tree Value Formula (CTLA 8th edition)

* Values of single trees in perfect conditions and locations in the Southeast range up to $100,000.
* $100 million is the value of community trees and forests in Savannah, GA
* $386 million is the value of community trees and forests in Oakland, CA (59% of this value is in residential trees).

Product Production

* Community trees and forests generate many traditional products for the cash and barter marketplace that include lumber, pulpwood, hobbyist woods, fruits, nuts, mulch, composting materials, firewood, and nursery plants.

Aesthetic Preferences

* Conifers, large trees, low tree densities, closed tree canopies, distant views, and native species all had positive values in scenic quality.
* Large old street trees were found to be the most important indicator of attractiveness in a community.
* Increasing tree density (optimal 53 trees per acre) and decreasing understory density are associated with positive perceptions.
* Increasing levels of tree density can initiate feelings of fear and endangerment -- an optimum number of trees allows for visual distances and openness while blocking or screening developed areas.
* Species diversity as a distinct quantity was not important to scenic quality.

Visual Screening

* The most common use of trees for utilitarian purposes is screening undesirable and disturbing sight lines.
* Tree crown management and tree species selection can help completely or partially block vision lines that show human density problems, development activities, or commercial / residential interfaces.

Recreation

* Contact with nature in many communities may be limited to local trees and green areas (for noticing natural cycles, seasons, sounds, animals, plants, etc.) Trees are critical in this context.
* $1.60 is the willing additional payment per visit for use of a tree covered park compared with a maintained lawn area.

Health

* Stressed individuals looking at slides of nature had reduced negative emotions and greater positive feelings than when looking at urban scenes without trees and other plants.
* Stressed individuals recuperate faster when viewing tree filled images.
* Hospital patients with natural views from their rooms had significantly shorter stays, less pain medicine required, and fewer post-operative complications.
* Psychiatric patients are more sociable and less stressed when green things are visible and immediately present.
* Prison inmates sought less health care if they had a view of a green landscape.

Human Social Interactions

* People feel more comfortable and at ease when in shaded, open areas of trees as compared to areas of hardscapes and non-living things.
* People's preferences for locating areas of social interactions in calming, beautiful, and nature-dominated areas revolve around the presence of community trees and forests.
* Trees and people are psychologically linked by culture, socialization, and coadaptive history.

Reference for most of this material: Literature Review for the QUANTITREE computer program -- "Quantifiable Urban Forest Benefits and Costs; Current Findings and Future Research." In a white paper entitled Consolidating and Communicating Urban Forest Benefits. Davey Resource Group, Kent, OH. 1993. pp.25.

For more information visit University of Georgia Thomas County Extension webpage or office.
-R.J.

Care of Young Shade and Street Trees

Young trees in the landscape, less than three to five years old, require special care to insure establishment and rapid growth. Proper early care helps young trees develop an adequate root system and a strong supportive branch structure. The time and expense invested to train a young tree is much less than treating problems as the tree matures.

Young trees may require staking, wrapping and corrective pruning. Proper mulching and control of competition can speed growth. In addition, trees require plenty of available water and essential elements for good growth. Young trees need protection from construction activities, lawn mowers and weed eaters, vandals, and pests.

Pruning

Young street and shade trees require proper pruning. Early pruning improves overall structure and corrects branch defects. Early pruning eliminates problems which become severe in middle and old age. Pruning shade and street trees develops and maintains a central dominant leader. Double or co-dominant leaders (forks) should be removed. Select the main leader early and maintain strong side branches. These side branches become the major limbs supporting the weight of the tree later in life. Remove dead, diseased and broken branches. Prune out deformed and crossing branches.

Many side branches should occur singly (alternately) on shade and street trees. However, trees such as ash and maple frequently have major branches occuring in pairs across the main stem. They can be pruned alternately up to 12 to 18 feet. Select and maintain major side branches spaced 24 to 36 inches apart on alternating sides of the stem. Also, select branches with wide angles of attachment, 60 to 90 degrees between the trunk and the branch. remove all waterspouts and basal sprouts.

Staking

Most established young trees can stand alone against wind and not be staked. Young trees with excessively long new shoots or those exposed to windy sites may require staking to remain upright. Stake young trees that are susceptible to blowing over. Anchorage staking holds the roots or root ball stationary until roots become anchored. Use two or three short stakes for anchorage. Extend stakes 12 to 18 inches above the ground. Loop one tie strap loosely around each stake and around the tree trunk. Low attachment prevents root ball dislodgement yet allows the top to move. Staking is temporary. Be sure to check ties frequently.

Support staking aids trees whose trunks are not strong enough to stand upright or fail to return upright. Support the top about six inches above the lowest level at which the trunk can be held and remain upright. This allows top flexibility while providing support. Support the trunk so it can flex without rubbing against the stakes or ties. This must not damage tender bark or girdle the expanding trunk. Support staking holds the tree upright until it can stand alone.

Wrapping

Newly-planted thin bark trees such as red maple or cherries may benefit from wrapping the trunks at planting. Thin barked trees planted on hot sites are very susceptible to sunscald. Commercial tree wraps or plastic tree guards will protect young trees. Spring planted trees can be susceptible to sunburn. The high temperatures from the summer sun may kill the cambium. Tree wraps insulate the cambium.

Young trees may require protection from sunscald. Sunscald occurs when the cambium of thin barked trees heats up during sunny fall or winter days. Colder temperatures that follow warm periods kill cambium cells in the trunk. Long verticle scars run down the trunk from near the lower most branches to the soil line. Injury usually occurs on the southwest side of the trunk. Thin bark maples and cherries, 4 to 5 inches in diameter, may require wrapping in fall to prevent sunscald.

Tree wraps also protect young trees from girdling by rodents. Start at the base of the trunk and wrap up to the lowermost limbs. Overlap each layer one-half inch. Wrap in the fall and leave the tree wrap on throughout the winter and early spring. Tree wrap is temporary and no longer needed once the tree develops corky bark.

Fertilization

Young trees growing in turf areas that are regularly fertilized do not usually require additional fertilization. Trees showing poor growth require a soil test to determine if essential elements are in short supply. When nitrogen is required, fertilize trees by applying 3 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of area per year. Make two or three applications, one each in April, June and October(optional) at 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Water each site after applying the fertilizer. Fertilizing trees with a turfgrass or groundcover understory requires multiple applications at light rates to avoid injury to the turfgrass or groundcover plants.

Mulching

Mulches aid in the establishment and growth of young trees. They conserve moisture by reducing evaporation from the soil surface. Mulches reduce erosion and water run-off. Mulches reduce competition and compaction. Mulches can effectively reduce summer soil temperatures to create a more favorable root environment. Organic mulches break down and add essential elements to the soil. Do not mulch wet sites, as mulch materials keep soils overly moist by retaining too much soil water.

To improve growth, mulch young trees out beyond the edge of the canopy. Use three to four inches of an organic mulch. Mulches eliminate the need for groundcovers and turfgrasses beneath young trees, thereby reducing competition for essential elements and moisture. Mulching prevents serious injuries to young tree trunks because there is no need to mow or use string-trimmers beneath trees.

Appropriate mulches include pine bark, pine straw and wood chips. Organic mulches more effectively insulate the soil than inorganic or rock mulches. Pull all mulches back from the trunk four to six inches to prevent diseases from invading the trunk. Rodents may live and burrow in loose mulches, so be alert for these pests.

Improving Growth

You can improve young tree growth by following a few basic cultural practices. First, eliminate competition from turfgrasses and groundcovers underneath young trees. Second but very important, mulch beneath the canopy and out beyond the edge of the foliage to improve the root zone environment. Third, surface apply fertilizers directly to the mulched area. Fourth, water during periods of drought. Fifth, keep lawn mowers and string-trimmers away from tree trunks. These steps will improve growth, even on slow-growing trees.

For more information visit the University of Georgia Thomas County Extension webpage or drop by the office.

-R.J.

Ground or Digger Bees Attack Lawns

The first sign of ground or digger bees in lawns may be strange little mounds of soil with a hole nearby. The ground bees will be flying over this area. Ground bees are solitary bees that dig and nest in the ground. These bees live one per hole but there may be many holes in an area creating ground bee communities. There are many types of ground bees that vary in color and range from one-half to three-quarter inch in length. Some types of solitary wasps live like this as well.

Female ground bees dig nests in the ground up to six or so inches deep in which to raise young. The bees pile earth around the sides of the hole. These bees can be very active in March and April. The female ground bee stocks the nest with pollen and nectar to feed the young bees. Some solitary wasps stock their nests with insects.

Ground bees typically cause little problem. The digging should not be enough to damage the lawn. The bees are not very aggressive and probably will not sting. You should be able to work and mow grass around them with few problems. People that are allergic to bee stings may want to be cautious when working around the bees.

We do not recommend chemical controls for ground bees or wasps. These bees can be beneficial - serving to pollinate plants or destroy harmful insects. They will probably only be around for four to six weeks and then disappear until next year.

If you must control them, use cultural controls.

* Ground bees like dry soils. Water the soil when bees first become active. Apply one inch of water once a week if it does not rain.
* Ground bees nest in dry areas where the grass is thin. Find and correct the problems making the turf thin. This may involve soil sampling, irrigation, soil aeration or other practices.
* Find ways to thicken the turf in these areas to reduce ground bee problems. Know the needs of the turf grass and meet them!
* In areas that will not grow grass, mulch the area.

If you must use a pesticide, watch during the day to see where the holes are located. After dark, dust these areas with carbaryl (sold under the name Sevin and other names) dust. A dust insecticide should cling to the bee’s body better than a spray. Keep people and pets out of the area while it is being treated.

The bees are not generally harmful and pesticides are toxic. The cure may be worse than the problem. Try to put up with the bees if you can. These bees may be difficult to control and may return year to year. If you have ongoing problems with them, follow all recommendations very carefully. See this site where I found much of this information http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html

There is one large caution in connection with ground bees and wasps. Ground bees are not aggressive but can look like other bees and wasps that are very aggressive and harmful. Make absolutely certain that you are not dealing with a yellow jacket or bumble bee nest. Both of these insects can literally cover you with stings very quickly. They can also have extremely large nests in Georgia. If you ever get into trouble with these, run until you escape them. Running inside may help. Do not stop to swat, roll on the ground, etc.

Before you begin control of any stinging insect, make certain of your pest. This or other websites can help you identify the lawn invader http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/plantclinic/documents/t-10-waspsandbees.pdf.

One difference between ground bees and other bees or wasps is that ground bees live by themselves and make many holes in the ground. Yellow jackets and bumble bees have many insects per hole. Use the following from Dr. Will Hudson, UGA Entomologist, as a guide for identification.

Many holes with one 1 bee per hole = solitary bees (like ground bees) that sting only as a last resort.

One hole, many bees = social bees (like yellow jackets and bumble bees). Keep away! These are non-reproductive workers that will sacrifice themselves in defense of the nest.

For insects other than ground bees, you may want to hire a pest control company or a wildlife removal company. They should have the training and equipment to do the job properly.


For more information:

Call your local Extension Agent at (800) ASK-UGA1 or locate your local Extension Office at http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/statewide.cfm

Butterfly Gardens

Butterfly populations can be greatly enhanced by devoting a portion of the landscape to butterfly habitat. In addition to their natural beauty, butterflies serve as valuable plant pollinators. The 3 necessary ingredients to attract and maintain butterfly populations all summer are: 1) nectar producing plants 2) larval food plants and 3) a shallow pool of water.

Nectar producing plants provide food for adult butterflies. Characteristics of good butterfly-attracting plants include: 1) sweet, pungent, and highly fragrant flowers 2) red, purple, orange, yellow or pink flower colors 3) simple, open flowers. Flowers that are deep throated or enclosed are not conducive to nectar collection. Most of the plants recommended as nectar food plants are herbaceous or woody perennials.

Although nectar-producing plants are necessary to attract adult butterflies, the ideal butterfly garden requires food plants and habitat for the larvae (caterpillars). Many of the grasses and wildflowers native to Georgia are suitable for larvae food. The plant material should be located in an undisturbed area that is free of pesticides.

If you have a limited landscapes area, 3 of the most commonly recommended plants for butterfly gardens are pentas, lantana, and butterfly bush. With mild winters and heavy mulching, pentas in south Georgia will sometimes survive as a perennial. Lantana and butterfly bush are excellent perennial shrubs that flower through the spring, summer and fall. Both plants should be cut back in February or March since flowers occur on new growth. To attract swallowtail butterfly, you can include fennel in your border plants.

Another necessary ingredient for a sustained butterfly population is a source of water. Butterflies will not drink from open, deep areas. It is necessary to provide one or more shallow water sources. Wet sand or mud makes an excellent watering hole. A saucer designed to fit beneath clay or plastic pots also make an excellent water source - just sand to make it shallow. A rock or other object added to the center of the saucer provides a resting spot for the butterfly.

DAYLILIES

Daylilies can be grown successfully in all areas of Georgia. To achieve good growth and flowering, plant daylilies where they receive full sun for at least half a day. Many varieties will do well if plants get full sun during mornings and partial shade in the afternoon. They also do well under filtered shade.

Daylilies will grow in a variety of soils from light,sandy soils to heavy clay. Beds should be spaded or tilled deeply to reduce compaction and underlying hard-pans.Both conditions will impede drainage. Do not plant daylilies in poorly drained soil. Plant in soil that is mildly acidic-a pH of 6.0-6.5. Apply lime if pH is below 5.5.

Daylilies can be planted or transplanted at any time of year, but fall or early spring planting is recommended. After planting, water routinely to encourage new growth and early establishment. Vigorous varieties should be divided every four to five years. Clumps are more easily divides if the soil is washed from the roots. One done it is easier to see the root structure which makes separation easier.

Daylilies should be planted 18 to 24 inches apart to prevent crowding. Dig individual holes several inches wider than the root system and at least 12 inches deep. The soil should be worked until crumbly. Build a cone-shaped mound of soil in the middle of the planting hole. Set the plants' roots over the top of the mound trailing downward into the hole. Adjust the height of the mound so that the plant sits as deep as it grew originally.

A safe rule is to seat the plant so that the point where the plant root and foliage meet is not deeper than one inch below the surface of the soil. Cover the roots carefully with soil. Firm the soil around roots but do not pack it. Construct a small mound of soil around the outside of the planting hole to help direct water toward the root system. Water thoroughly after planting and once or twice a week until established.

Mulching with about two inches of pine straw or pine bark is good for the plants and will aide water retention and reduce weeds.

A weekly application of water during the growing season will promote good growth and flowering. Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of ten to twelve inches(1/2 inches of water if sandy soil and 3/4 to 1 inch for clay soils). Sandy soils may require water every four to five days.

Daylilies grow better when fertilized with a fertilizer containing a moderate amount of phosphorous and potash(5-10-15 or 6-12-12). Apply in early spring when new growth commences. A rate of two pounds per one hundred square feet is suggested. Your can find more information at Thomas County Extension's webpage.

Camellias: Fertilization and Pruning

Camellias have been a part of the southern landscapes for almost 200 years. Camellias flower in the fall and winter, but during the remainder of the year, their evergreen foliage, interesting shapes and textures, and relatively slow growth make camellias excellent landscape plants. Camellias perform best in partially shaded locations which are enhanced by good water drainage and air movement.

Pruning - Camellias should require little pruning if they are properly used in the landscape. Necessary pruning should be done in the late winter or very early spring. Prune by removing undesirable branches to retain a natural shape and branching habit. Shearing should be avoided because it will result in a dense layer of foliage that blocks light from interior branches. Shearing also destroys the natural plant form.

Fertilization - Due to the heavy leaching of nutrients from sandy soils, frequent and light applications are recommended. For example, 1/2 pound of 12-4-8 or 15-5-15 should be applied per 100 square feet of planting area four times a year. Applications are recommended 1) before spring growth begins, 2) after the first growth flush, 3) mid-summer, and 4) early winter after the danger of late growth has passed. Late summer fertilization may cause tender growth which may be injured by early cold periods. Water the plants before and after fertilizer applications.

For more information visit our site - http://www.thomascountyextension.com/
for more camellia information: http://www.ugaextension.com/thomas/anr/documents/Camellias_B813.pdf

By Martha

TURFGRASS FERTILIZATION TIME? NOT NECESSARILY

Hey, I wanted to pass on this great article Paul wrote on fertilizing your yards. It is very informative and will help you make better decisions in the landscape. You can also find a month by month to-do turf calendar at our website: http://www.ugaextension.com/thomas/anr/index.html

By Paul Pugliese, Bartow County Agriculture Extension Agent

March is usually the time of year that local garden centers begin major advertising campaigns to sell lawn fertilizers. But depending on the type of grass you have, it may be too early to start fertilizing your lawn. In general, the best time to fertilize a lawn is when it is actively growing.

Fescue should be fed in the fall

Fescue lawns and other cool-season grasses that don't go dormant should be fertilized in the fall (October) and spring (March). Most other lawns, including bermudagrass, zoysia, centipede and other warm-season grasses that go dormant in winter, should not be fertilized until late spring through mid-summer (May to August). Fertilizing now would be a waste of time and money.

Why shouldn't you fertilize warm-season grasses when they are dormant? First, when grasses are dormant, their roots are not able to absorb or use the nutrients from fertilizers. By the time the grass does begin actively growing, most of the nitrogen you applied will have been lost from the soil.

Don't feed the weeds

Also, fertilizing while the grass is dormant actually encourages more winter weeds, because you are fertilizing the weeds instead of the lawn. Without competition from the lawn, these weeds will grow faster and become more prolific as a result of dormant fertilizer applications.

Lastly, fertilizing lawns during their transition into dormancy in the fall or out of dormancy in the spring may encourage lawn growth that is more likely to be injured from winter kill. Bare spots and thinning of the lawn as well as delay in spring green-up may occur when lawns are forced to grow when they should be dormant.

Combo products not the answer

So, should you apply convenient "weed and feed" products that combine a pre-emergent herbicide and fertilizer in one application? Unfortunately, the ideal time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide actually contradicts the ideal time to apply fertilizer for warm-season lawns. These products are intended for fescue and other cool-season grasses. In north Georgia, the recommended application window is Sept. 1-15 and March 1-20 to maximize the effectiveness of pre-emergent herbicides.

The application timing for these products is critical since they must be applied before annual weeds germinate in spring and fall. It's always better to apply pre-emergent herbicides a little earlier rather than too late. And don't forget to activate them by watering them into the lawn.

For bermudagrass and other warm-season grasses, buy fertilizer that is separate from the pre-emergent herbicide. Apply each at their recommended times.

Start with a soil test

A soil test is always a good starting point before investing in fertilizer or lime. Your local University of Georgia County Extension office [Thomas County - 229.225.4130] can test your soil and provide an exact pH and nutrient analysis with recommendations on how much fertilizer and lime to apply, if any is needed. Contact your local Extension office by calling 1-800-ASK- UGA1. A soil test kit can also be ordered online at www.soiltest123.com

Name That Insect: Swallow Tail Larva

I have had several samples the past few days and they have all been the same insect. Well, larva actually, larva of the swallow tail butterfly.
The hosts of the giant swallow tail butterfly, Papilio cresphontes, include citrus, prickly ash, and hop trees. A common name of larva is the orange dog.

See the photos below to help you ID if your larva is the same.

GA/FL Green Industry Update

Its time to register for the GA/FL Green Industry update.

The cost is $30.00 for early registration. Student cost is $15.00. The meeting here will be held at Val Tech. but there are other locations. Three hours of credit will be given in Category 21 and 24. There will be 6 CEU's for arborists and if you are an arborist you know how hard those are to come by. For more information on the program open the below link and click on the GA/FL program.

Georgia/Florida Green Industry Update Video Conference Scheduled for November 17, 2009
The Universities of Georgia and Florida will host a one-day video conference for Green Industry professionals on November 17, 2009. The purpose of the conference is to provide the latest information on new production and cultural practices, new plants, new pests, and new products for Green Industry Professionals. Participants can choose to attend the conference at one of five locations in Georgia: Savannah, Valdosta, Perry, Albany or Columbus.
The program offers a dynamic line-up of speakers on a wide-variety of current topics as well as pesticide re-certification credits and CEUs for participants from Georgia, Florida and South Carolina.
Space is limited, so early registration is encouraged. Participants can register three ways: by mail, by FAX or on-line. For detailed conference information and registration, see http://www.caes.uga.edu/external/tccc/calendar.html or phone (229) 386-3416.

Landscaper Lunch N Learn Update Series

· July 21 - Dr. Clint Waltz - Cultural Practices for Turfgrasses -Thomasville, GA
· July 28 - Dr. Patrick McCullough - Turf Weed and Herbicide Update -Valdosta, GA
· August 4 - Dr. Will Hudson - Insects of Turf and Ornamentals - Thomasville, GA
· August 11 - Dr. Alfredo Martinez - Diseases of Turf and Ornamentals- Valdosta, GA

Cost: $15 per session, Register by Monday Morning Prior to the Update.Open to all interested.
Time: Noon to 2pm
Includes: Lunch, pesticide credits have been applied for each meeting- Cat 24, 27, Private

Register at the Thomas County Extension Office - 229.225.4130 - or the Lowndes County Extension Office - 229.333.5185 by Monday Morning Prior to the Update.
Open to all interested.

Download flyer here.

Tree Workshop - Friday, April 17th

Thomas County Extension will be conducting an Urban Tree Workshop.

Come learn and participate in the Urban Tree Workshop at the Remington EMS on Friday, April, 17th starting at 8:30 AM. We will discuss tree pruning, health, identification, and selection. Hands-on exercises include proper pruning techniques and tree identification. Participants will also receive tree books and related materials. This class is meant to teach you how to prune properly, identify tree health issues, how to identify common trees in our region, and tree selection. Bring your pruners to practice your pruning!

This program is open to all interested. The cost is $25 which includes lunch, books, and materials. Category 24 and Private Pesticide credits will be given. Visit our website for more information – http://www.thomascountyexention.com/

Space is limited, so please pay by Wednesday, April 15th. Register by contacting the office at 229.225.4130 or email us at uge4275@uga.edu with the subject – Urban Tree Workshop. The office is located at 227 West Jefferson Street, across from the Thomas County Public library. For more information please contact R.J. Byrne.

2009 Green Up - Landscaper Update Workshop

2009 Green Up landscape update and trade show planned for Feb. 24 in Perry, GA.

Who could benefit from attending Green Up?

Landscapers and turf managers.
Golf course superintendants.
Grounds maintenance workers and managers.
Others that maintain landscapes and turf.

Why should I attend?

Up-to-date training from university & industry speakers.
Four educational tracks – turf, color & design, landscapes and water issues.
Pesticide applicator re-certification credits in Georgia category 24 & private.
Trade show and interaction with others in the industry.

How can I attend?

The early registration fee is only $35 increasing to $45 after Feb. 10.
See a schedule and registration information at http://tinyurl.com/houstonanr.
For more information contact the Georgia Green Industry Association (GGIA) at (706) 632-0100 or Green Up organizer Willie Chance, Houston County Extension Agent - (478) 987-2028 or wchance@uga.edu.

Master Gardener Class Offered - Deadline Extended!

New Deadline - December 9th, 2008
Info below and Registration form here.

Thomas County Extension will offer a Master Gardener Class beginning Tuesday, January 20, 2009. The course is open to residents of Thomas, Brooks, Colquitt, Mitchell, and Grady Counties. All classes will be held at the Thomas County Extension Office, 227 West Jefferson Street. The classes will be held on January 20th , 22nd, 23rd, and starting January 26th, every Monday and Wednesday from 9:00 a.m. until 11:30 a.m. for 10 weeks, ending on Wednesday April 1st.

The Georgia Master Gardener Program is a volunteer recruitment and training program of the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension. The main purpose is to train volunteers to provide unbiased, research-based, environmentally sound, horticulture information to the public. Those completing the course will have a much greater knowledge of horticultural practices and will be expected to share their knowledge by volunteering 50 hours back into the community.

Most potential Master Gardeners want to know what community service entails. Community service is any activity in which your newly acquired horticultural knowledge is shared with others. These activities may include advising other citizens with caring for their landscapes, writing horticultural newsletters, working with youth, assisting with beautification projects, judging school projects dealing with agriculture, or civic and garden club presentations.

Most classes will be taught by extension agents and specialists from the University of Georgia. The following classes will be taught:

Introduction to the Master Gardener Program

Soil and Plant Nutrition

Botany/Plant Physiology

Basic Entomology/Pathology

Weed ID and Control

Using the Pest Control Handbook

Vegetable and Herb Gardening

Insects and Diseases of Vegetables

Herbaceous Ornamentals

Selecting Woody Ornamentals

Trees

Maintenance of Woody Ornamentals

Turf Selection and Maintenance

Diseases of Turf and Ornamentals

Developing a Waterwise Landscape

Insects of Turf and Ornamentals

Composting and Mulching

Fruit Gardening

Structural and Household Pests

Nuisance Wildlife

Registration fee for this class is $125.00 which includes a copy of the Georgia Master Gardener Handbook. A minimum enrollment of 10 participants is required to conduct this training. Maximum enrollment is 25 participants.

The deadline to apply is Tuesday, December 2, 2009. Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. If you have any questions, please contact R.J. Byrne, Thomas County Extension Agent at 229.225.4130 or rjbyrne@uga.edu.

Protect Landscape Trees Now from Drought Injury

Adapted from an article by Dr. Kim Coder
Professor of Tree Health Care, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, UGA

Trees across Georgia are declining due to drought. Drought stressed trees may have fewer or smaller leaves. Small or large limbs or the entire tree may die. Although trees can withstand some drought injury, some trees may require months to years to recover from drought injury. Trees also may not show damage immediately. When they do, it may be too late to save them. Protect trees now from drought with proper care.

How to Water
The best ways to water trees are by soaker hose or drip irrigation. Automated lawn sprinklers are less efficient for applying water to trees. Even a garden hose, moved often, can provide a good soil soaking. Use a light organic mulch to conserve moisture and apply water over the top of the mulch. Do not pile mulch against the base of the tree or allow water to concentrate at the base of the trunk as this can lead to pest problems.

Where to Water
Most of the tree's absorbing roots are in the top foot of soil. Applying water deeper than this misses the active roots and wastes water.

Lay-out water hoses or applicators out to the tree crown edge (drip-line). Water the soil areas directly beneath the foliage and shaded by the tree. Do not water beyond the drip-line and do not water closer than 4 feet to the trunk base on established trees.

Use mulch and slow application rates on slopes, heavy soils (clays), and compacted soils to assure water is soaking-in and not running-off. Do not spray tree foliage when applying water. Water droplets on tree leaves can lead to pest problems. Try not to wet the tree’s trunk.

Young, newly planted trees need additional watering care. Water has limited horizontal movement in soil. You must apply water directly over where you need it in the soil. For new trees, concentrate water over the root ball, as well as the planting area.

Old, large trees can be watered over the entire area under their foliage. Another method in watering large trees is to water roughly 1/3 of the area within the drip-line.

When to Water
The best time to water is at night from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. Trees refill with water during the night. Watering at night reduces losses to evaporation and assures that more water moves into the soil and tree.

For every 18°F increase in temperature, the amount of water lost by a tree and the site around it almost doubles. Consider this when watering trees. Trees surrounded by pavement and other hot, hard surfaces can be 20-30°F warmer than a tree in a protected, landscaped backyard. Water use rapidly climbs with increasing temperatures, and so should water application volumes.

How Much To Water
Depending upon soil texture 1 to 2 inches of water per week should sustain a tree. Trees in limited rooting areas, in containers or pots, or on major slopes, need additional care to assure water is reaching the root system in adequate amounts and not suffocating roots from lack of drainage. Five gallons per square yard is about 1 inch of water.

Fine soils (clays) require careful attention to prevent over-watering and root death. Sandy soils can dry out rapidly since water runs out of the rooting zone quickly. Composted organic mulch on the soil surface can help prevent rapid loss of applied water.

How Often To Water
Water trees once or twice a week (minimum of 1 inch per watering) in the growing season if there is no rainfall in that particular week. A few heavy waterings are much better than many light, shallow waterings. A greater proportion of the applied water is used by the tree with heavy, infrequent watering. Once you begin watering, continue to water until rain comes.

Drought is the main cause of tree decline but beware of other factors that damage roots and lead to long-term tree decline and death.
Do not fertilize or use pesticides on severely drought stressed trees.
Do not dig or drive under the canopy of trees or do other things that kill or crush roots.
Do not pile soil under tree canopies. When adding soil to cover roots etc., add no more than 1 inch per growing season.
Protect the critical root zone of the tree. Measure the trunk diameter at chest height in inches. Multiply this by one and a half. This will be the size in feet of the radius of the circle that you must protect around the tree. For instance, a 20 inch diameter tree would have a critical root zone with a radius of 30 feet. Avoid digging, piling soil, trenching or driving through this area.

For more information:

Shade Tree Decline - http://apps.caes.uga.edu/urbanag/index.cfm?storyid=2714

What's Wrong With My Tree? - http://apps.caes.uga.edu/urbanag/index.cfm?storyid=2504

Call your local Extension Agent at (800) ASK-UGA1 or locate your local Extension Office at http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/statewide.cfm

Landscapers' Update

FREE ADMISSION AND OPEN TO THE PUBLIC

10:00 – 11:00
“Landscape Irrigation Troubleshooting”
Kerry Harrison – UGA Extension Irrigation Engineer

11:00 – 11:20
“Drought Tolerant Trees & Shrubs for Southern Gardens”
Jake Price – UGA Lowndes County Extension Agent

11:20 – 11:40
“Basics of Xeriscaping”
R. J. Byrne – UGA Thomas County Extension Agent

11:40 – 12:10
“Drought Disaster Relief”
Suzanne Barnett – Area Director
VSU Small Business Development Center
(229) 245-3738
www.valdosta.edu/sbdc

THURSDAY - Jan 10th
10:00 – 12:30 p.m.
Thomas County Extension Office
227 West Jefferson Street – Thomasville, GA
(229) 225-4130
www.ugaextension.com/thomas/


Also, if you cannot make the Thursday Meeting, there will be another meeting in Valdosta on Wednesday, Jan 9th. Transportation may be available.
10:00 – 12:30 p.m.
Lowndes County Extension Office
2102 East Hill Avenue – Valdosta, GA
(229) 333-5185
www.ugaextension.com/lowndes/

A cooperative effort of Lowndes and Thomas County Extension and the VSU Small Business Development Center (SBDC).
Two hours of pesticides recertification credits in category 24, “Ornamentals and Turf” have been applied for. Two hours of recertification credits for a private pesticide license has been applied for as well.
Funded in part through a cooperative agreement with the U.S. Small Business Administration and the University of Georgia.
Reasonable accommodations for persons with disabilities will be made if requested in advance. For details, contact Rose Ware at the VSU SBDC Office: (229) 245-3738