Citrus Leaf Miner

In the photo you can see off white lines in the leaf surface. This is a leaf off a satsuma tree, and it has been infested with the citrus leaf miner. The leaf miner makes tunnels between the upper and lower leaf surface. This is a common problem with citrus in our landscapes. They are attracted to new flushes of growth in citrus trees, so avoid heavy uses of nitrogen fertilizer.

Here is a good control guide from UC Davis on citrus leaf miners. We also have control recommendations on our website found here.

You can also email us at the office (uge4275@uga.edu) or visit with our Master Gardeners for more help.

Scale Insects

Check out the photo. Do you see the white scale insect on this Pittosporum? That is a Cottony Cushion Scale insect at the adult stage. Pittosporum and citrus plants are typically their hosts.

Control can be done in a few ways:

- with horticultural oil, however crawler stage is the best time

- pruning, remove and destroy infested branches

- natural enemies such as tiny wasps

For more information visit:

1. UGA's Urban Ag Scale info

2. UF's Scale Info

3. Scale Insects and Mealybugs on Ornamental Plants

You can also email us at the office (uge4275@uga.edu) or visit with our Master Gardeners for more help.

Pomegranate

Pomegranates (Punica granatum) are dense, bushy shrubs 6 to 12 feet tall with thorny, slender branches that may be trained into small trees. Orange-red flowers appear on new growth in the spring and summer and are bell-shaped and vase-shaped. The vase-shaped flowers are normally sterile, so they will not develop into fruit. Pomegranates generally fruit poorly in Georgia. The fruit contains numerous seeds surrounded by sweet pink, juicy, subacid pulp covered with leathery-brown to red, bitter skin, which is easily peeled. Pomegranate juice stains can be difficult to remove from clothing.

Pomegranates may be damaged by unseasonably low temperatures in the fall, winter or spring and in mid-winter by temperatures below 10 degrees F.

Pomegranates can tolerate many soil types and some flooding. Pomegranates grow best on a deep, fairly heavy, moist soil at a pH range of 5.5 to 7.0. Proper watering is important in growing pomegranates because adequate soil moisture is necessary to control fruit splitting and reduce fruit drop. Fertilize young pomegranates with 1 pound of 10-10-10 in March and July. Increase the rate as the plants grow until the mature tree is receiving 3 pounds of 10-10-10 in March and July.

Most growers prefer to train pomegranates into a multiple-trunk system. Select five or six vigorous suckers and allow them to grow. Pomegranates require some pruning each year, and unneeded vigorous shoots should be removed. The short spurs on two- or three-year-old wood growing mostly on the outer edge of the tree produce flowers. Light annual pruning encourages growth of new fruit spurs. Heavy pruning reduces yield, so be careful to leave adequate fruit-bearing wood on the tree while removing branches that may cross over or interfere with growth.

Hardwood cuttings are usually used for propagation. Cuttings 8 to 10 inches long of wood ¼ to ½ inch in diameter are cut in winter from the previous season's growth and planted with 2 to 3 inches of the top exposed.

Several varieties are available, including 'Belgal,' 'Granada' and 'Early Foothill' (early ripening), 'Ruby Red,' 'Sweet Spanish Papershell' and 'Wonderful.' How-ever, most of these varieties only set a few fruit each year in Georgia. In north Florida, 'Belgal' has been more productive than other varieties and usually produces about 10 fruit per year. There are many door-yard trees of unknown varieties around old home places and plantations that set good crops of fruit most years. These can be propagated by hardwood cuttings.

Pomegranate leaf blotch or fruit spot are occasion-ally problems.

Gardenias

Gardenias are not only about the visual beauty of bloom and leaf; gardenias are about fragrance. Gardenias also known as Cape Jessimine have been cultivated for hundreds of years for its scent.

According to Wikipedia, the gardenia originated in Asia and was named by John Ellis ,a British naturalist, for Dr. Alexander Garden of Charleston who practiced medicine there in the 1750's. Dr. Garden was also a noted botanist.

Depending on the cultivar, Gardenias vary in height from dwarfs(Gardenia Radicans) which grow to about 18 inches to other cultivars which can grow to up to six feet.Plant gardenias in a location with good are circulation and near patios, walks and windows to enjoy the fragrance and lovely foliage and flowers. Gardenias can be used in the landscape as screens, borders or groundcover, in mass plantings or as free standing specimens.

Gardenias grow best in partial shade in well drained,acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5) improved with organic matter such as compost, peat moss or manure to improve nutrient and moisture-holding capacity. Take soil samples for analysis by the County Extension Office to determine soil deficiencies. Generally, use of a fertilizer designed for azaleas should meet plants nutrient requirements,but check to make sure that the fertilizer contains the nutrients recommended in the soil analysis. Established plants do well with two to three applications of fertilizer per year beginning in March, with the second application in September and a third during the summer.

Gardenias can be susceptible to aphids, mealy bugs, thrips, scale, whitefly and sooty mold. If you are unsure about the type of pest is infesting your plants,your should bring a specimen to the County Extension Office for identification. Mold can best be managed by controlling pests.

Pruning should be done after plants have finished blooming. New plants can be started from cuttings . The cuttings can be planted at any time, but are most successfully started if planted between June and September.

Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are a lovely addition to the southern garden. They do best in beds with lots of organic matter in partial shade. However, they may tolerate full morning sun if plenty of moisture is available.

New plants should not be fed until established which takes one to two months. After establishment use a balanced fertilizer,but use it sparingly because too much nitrogen can stop flowering.

For pink flowers top dress with dolomite or drench with quick lime solution. For blue flowers, use aluminum sulphate to acidify the soil. Two cups of aluminum sulphate equals one(1) pound. Use one(1) pound per three(3) feet of height or mix one(1) pound of aluminum sulphate in five(5) gallons of water and apply at the drip line of the shrubs and water in. The change in color is not immediate. Use of phosphate fertilizer can "tie up" the aluminum which is what changes the blossoms from pink to blue.

Big leaf or mophead hydrangeas can be deadheaded at any time. To revitalize, the shrubs can be cut almost to the ground.
For more information visit http://apps.caes.uga.edu/urbanag/index.cfm?storyid=2497.

Butterfly Gardens

Butterfly populations can be greatly enhanced by devoting a portion of the landscape to butterfly habitat. In addition to their natural beauty, butterflies serve as valuable plant pollinators. The 3 necessary ingredients to attract and maintain butterfly populations all summer are: 1) nectar producing plants 2) larval food plants and 3) a shallow pool of water.

Nectar producing plants provide food for adult butterflies. Characteristics of good butterfly-attracting plants include: 1) sweet, pungent, and highly fragrant flowers 2) red, purple, orange, yellow or pink flower colors 3) simple, open flowers. Flowers that are deep throated or enclosed are not conducive to nectar collection. Most of the plants recommended as nectar food plants are herbaceous or woody perennials.

Although nectar-producing plants are necessary to attract adult butterflies, the ideal butterfly garden requires food plants and habitat for the larvae (caterpillars). Many of the grasses and wildflowers native to Georgia are suitable for larvae food. The plant material should be located in an undisturbed area that is free of pesticides.

If you have a limited landscapes area, 3 of the most commonly recommended plants for butterfly gardens are pentas, lantana, and butterfly bush. With mild winters and heavy mulching, pentas in south Georgia will sometimes survive as a perennial. Lantana and butterfly bush are excellent perennial shrubs that flower through the spring, summer and fall. Both plants should be cut back in February or March since flowers occur on new growth. To attract swallowtail butterfly, you can include fennel in your border plants.

Another necessary ingredient for a sustained butterfly population is a source of water. Butterflies will not drink from open, deep areas. It is necessary to provide one or more shallow water sources. Wet sand or mud makes an excellent watering hole. A saucer designed to fit beneath clay or plastic pots also make an excellent water source - just sand to make it shallow. A rock or other object added to the center of the saucer provides a resting spot for the butterfly.

March Tips for Ornamentals and Lawn

Here is a few tips from our UGA Thomas County Master Gardeners for the month of March.

• If you want flowers on your cactus, plant it in a small pot. Most cacti bloom sooner if root bound.

• Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of spring and new growth.

• Apply a pre-emergent herbicide before lawn weeds get started. These chemicals work by preventing the seed from germinating. It is important that the herbicides be applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.

• Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a dark area. Shade-loving ground covers such as variegated liriope. Ivies, euonymous and hosta, can be very effective for this.

• Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves and reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant some new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty and ambiance of your home.

• If you haven’t done it already, check stored tools and outdoor furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel wool, and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.

• If your tiller turns over sluggishly in spring, before trying to start it, move it to a sunny location and cover it with a black garbage bag for half an hour. A few minutes of solar heating will warm up the fluids and make starting easier.

• Some gardeners start seedlings in vermiculite purchased at garden supply stores, but this medium does not contain the nutrients needed for sustained growth, so seedlings should be transplanted to soil when the second pair of true leaves form.

• Catnip is a hardy plant, but grow it in a large pot or tub to contain its invasive growth.

• Don’t buy more chemicals than you can use in a season - - the smaller the bottle, the better. If you overbought in the past and have aged garden chemicals you no longer use, dispose of them according to local regulations. Do not pour them down the drain or into the ground as this can pollute the water systems, damage the soil and possibly injure or kill plants, people and animals that may come in contact with the chemicals.

• A child’s first garden should include sunflowers from seeds. The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably, and the strong seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20 feet in height with seed-head diameters of 2 feet to be in the running.

• Cover old stumps with soil to help hasten decay.

• Turn the compost pile and add manure.

• The most common nematodes are saprophytes that feed on decaying organic matter. They play a critical role maintaining the balance of nature in returning nutrients to the soil.

• Bluebells are superb for naturalizing in the same manner as daffodils but prefer a shadier location and will bloom even where they get no direct sun at all

• As tulip, narcissus and other large bulbs begin to emerge set pansy plants between them for added color.

• If weeds occur in bulb beds, do not cover them by cultivation. Pull them by hand so the bulbs and roots will not be disturbed.

• Don’t forget to fertilize naturalized bulbs in the spring as leaves emerge. Do not mow the area until the bulb foliage begins to die back.

• In your flower arrangements, avoid mixing cut daffodils with tulips. Daffodils produce a chemical “slime” that injures tulip blooms. If you wish to use two flowers in an arrangement, place the daffodils in another container for a day after cutting, then rinse off the stems and add to the vase of tulips. Adding 1 tablespoon of activated charcoal or 6 drops of bleach to each quart of water also helps.

• Reposition stepping stones that have heaved or sunk below grass level. Lift them up, spread sand in the low areas, and replace the rocks. A bed of sand under the stones will aid drainage and decrease having to do it again next year.

• Be aware that a brown plastic material that looks and feels like natural burlap, but does not break down in the soil, is now being used to wrap root balls of balled and burlapped plants. Synthetic materials enclosing the roots of trees and shrubs must be completely removed to ensure success of the transplants.

• Potted azaleas, available through Easter, will flower for two to three weeks, if the soil is kept slightly moist. Display in a cool (60 degrees F) bright location, and remove withered flowers. Unless you have room to experiment, discard when blooms fade since most florist azaleas are not hardy enough to be established outdoors.

• Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.

• Boxwood should be pruned by thinning the outer foliage of the plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.

• Prune spring-flowering shrubs after flowering is completed.

• Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant about four weeks before the average date of the late frost.

• Propagate deciduous shrubs, such as forsythia and winter jasmine, now by ground layering.

DAYLILIES

Daylilies can be grown successfully in all areas of Georgia. To achieve good growth and flowering, plant daylilies where they receive full sun for at least half a day. Many varieties will do well if plants get full sun during mornings and partial shade in the afternoon. They also do well under filtered shade.

Daylilies will grow in a variety of soils from light,sandy soils to heavy clay. Beds should be spaded or tilled deeply to reduce compaction and underlying hard-pans.Both conditions will impede drainage. Do not plant daylilies in poorly drained soil. Plant in soil that is mildly acidic-a pH of 6.0-6.5. Apply lime if pH is below 5.5.

Daylilies can be planted or transplanted at any time of year, but fall or early spring planting is recommended. After planting, water routinely to encourage new growth and early establishment. Vigorous varieties should be divided every four to five years. Clumps are more easily divides if the soil is washed from the roots. One done it is easier to see the root structure which makes separation easier.

Daylilies should be planted 18 to 24 inches apart to prevent crowding. Dig individual holes several inches wider than the root system and at least 12 inches deep. The soil should be worked until crumbly. Build a cone-shaped mound of soil in the middle of the planting hole. Set the plants' roots over the top of the mound trailing downward into the hole. Adjust the height of the mound so that the plant sits as deep as it grew originally.

A safe rule is to seat the plant so that the point where the plant root and foliage meet is not deeper than one inch below the surface of the soil. Cover the roots carefully with soil. Firm the soil around roots but do not pack it. Construct a small mound of soil around the outside of the planting hole to help direct water toward the root system. Water thoroughly after planting and once or twice a week until established.

Mulching with about two inches of pine straw or pine bark is good for the plants and will aide water retention and reduce weeds.

A weekly application of water during the growing season will promote good growth and flowering. Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of ten to twelve inches(1/2 inches of water if sandy soil and 3/4 to 1 inch for clay soils). Sandy soils may require water every four to five days.

Daylilies grow better when fertilized with a fertilizer containing a moderate amount of phosphorous and potash(5-10-15 or 6-12-12). Apply in early spring when new growth commences. A rate of two pounds per one hundred square feet is suggested. Your can find more information at Thomas County Extension's webpage.

Camellias: Fertilization and Pruning

Camellias have been a part of the southern landscapes for almost 200 years. Camellias flower in the fall and winter, but during the remainder of the year, their evergreen foliage, interesting shapes and textures, and relatively slow growth make camellias excellent landscape plants. Camellias perform best in partially shaded locations which are enhanced by good water drainage and air movement.

Pruning - Camellias should require little pruning if they are properly used in the landscape. Necessary pruning should be done in the late winter or very early spring. Prune by removing undesirable branches to retain a natural shape and branching habit. Shearing should be avoided because it will result in a dense layer of foliage that blocks light from interior branches. Shearing also destroys the natural plant form.

Fertilization - Due to the heavy leaching of nutrients from sandy soils, frequent and light applications are recommended. For example, 1/2 pound of 12-4-8 or 15-5-15 should be applied per 100 square feet of planting area four times a year. Applications are recommended 1) before spring growth begins, 2) after the first growth flush, 3) mid-summer, and 4) early winter after the danger of late growth has passed. Late summer fertilization may cause tender growth which may be injured by early cold periods. Water the plants before and after fertilizer applications.

For more information visit our site - http://www.thomascountyextension.com/
for more camellia information: http://www.ugaextension.com/thomas/anr/documents/Camellias_B813.pdf

By Martha

Harvesting, Cleaning and Curing Gourds

More and more home gardeners are growing gourds for use in dried floral arrangements, bird houses, etc. The easy part is raising the gourds, the hard part is to determine when to pick them. If vines die prematurely before the fruit becomes hard it will be difficult to keep these for a very long period. In order to be successful with gourd storage, the gourds need to ripen on the vine. The best indication of a ripe gourd is the withered condition of the stem. Immature gourds that have frozen will not keep if storage is attempted.

There are several different types of gourds and each requires special handling methods. The most common Lagenaria gourds are often referred to as the dipper, caveman’s club, Giant bottle, Powder Horn, or Martin gourd. If fruits are dirty or dusty they can be washed in a mild soapy water and then rinsed with a solution of one part household bleach to ten parts water. Place gourds in a warm spot with good ventilation and out of direct sunlight until completely dry. Mature Lagenaria gourds may only require curing, if so, place in a spot with a temperature of 60 to 85 degrees F and with low humidity. Immature Lagenarias may be hung by a string attached to the stem and placed in a well ventilated, out-of-the-way place since they may require several months to completely cure.

If gourds are to be painted, shellacked, waxed or lacquered the surface must be completely dry. The Lagenarias may have a surface mold present and this can be removed before painting or waxing by soaking in warm water for a few minutes and then the mold can be removed by scraping with a knife blade. Dry gourd again before spraying with acrylic resin paint or waxed with a good liquid floor wax is applied.

Luffa cylindrical, also called the sponge or dish rag gourd, is grown mainly for the tough, fibrous netting that remains after the pulpy flesh is removed from mature fruit. The fibrous netting makes excellent sponges that are valued for use in the bath or as dish and pot scrubbers. Other important uses of the spongy material have been marine steam engine filters, doormats, table mats, mattress or shoulder pad stuffing, and for absorbing sound.

Luffas that are allowed to mature on the vine will turn from green to a dark tan or brown. At this time the internal fiber is mature and the gourd can be stored in a cool dry place until further processing of the gourd can be done.

The basic method for preparing the sponge material is to immerse the dry, mature fruit in water for a few days to allow the skin and flesh to soften so that it can be easily removed. Some additional drying may be required before the seeds will separate.

Once cleansed of seeds and flesh, the fibrous network is dried and, for some purposes bleached in hydrogen peroxide or one part bleach to nine parts water if a whiter color is desired. After soaking in bleach, rinse sponge and dry in full sun.

Cucurbita gourds (Apple, Bell, Egg, finger {Holy Crown}, Pear, Spoon, etc) usually ripen before other types and the fruit is ripe when the outside shell of the fruit has become hard. Lagenaria gourds on the other hand are ripe when they change colors from green to tan, are lightweight and have a firm shell.

COFFEE GROUNDS FOR FERTILIZER

Used coffee grounds are a fertilizer for your plants and a great addition to Compost piles. You may add them to either existing or brand new plant beds.

Many gardeners compost their leaves, grass clippers and trimmings from their yard. The soil can be improved and more productive by mixing organic matter into the soil. Kitchen waste such as vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea leaves and eggshells may be added to the compost pile. Coffee grounds added to the compost pile help maintain the nitrogen balance which is import for decomposition of the organic materials in compost.

Coffee grounds can be applied directly to acid loving plants like blueberries, hydrangeas, azaleas, roses and tomato plants. Ground coffee is high in nitrogen, making it a good mulch for fast growing vegetables. Coffee contains a number of substances that promote healthy plant growth. Work coffee grounds into the soil so that they don’t form a crust on the top.

Coffee grounds are a source of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium. These nutrients are beneficial to the plants in your garden. Using the grounds is an environmentally friendly and cost effective way to nourish plants.

Increase carrot and radish harvest by mixing seeds with dry coffee grounds before planting the seed.

Coffee grounds may be used on indoor plants too or use left over coffee to water indoor plants.

An analysis of coffee grounds was performed in 1995 by the University of Washington, College of Forest Resources, the

Primary Nutrients are:
Nitrogen 1.45%
Phosphorus not a significant amount
Potassium 1204 UG/G


Secondary Nutrients
Calcium 389 UG/G
Magnesium 448 UG/G
Sulfur high UG /G


Terms: UG/G=microgram/gram

In summary, coffee grounds can lower pH and add organic matter to soil. Coffee grounds can be sourced from your home or you may be able to find used grounds at your local restaurant or coffee shop.

Urban Tree Field Day

Thomas County Extension will conduct an urban tree field day at Cherokee Lake on Friday, August 14th, from 9AM to 11AM. We will meet at the boat ramp and picnic area.

The field day is open to all interested in learning more about our urban tree canopy. The program will consist of tree identification, what type of tree to plant in urban settings, economic and ecological benefits of trees, and also some information on the GPS/GIS tree mapping of Thomasville currently going on. We will have various experts on hand to lead the field day.

Come learn at this hands-on opportunity how to identify trees and how we benefit from trees. This is a great learning event for all. For more information contact R.J. Byrne at the Thomas County Extension Office 229.225.4130.

Deciduous Tree ID in Winter

The University of Florida/IFAS – Leon Co Extension is offering a Tree ID Lab in Tallahassee, FL.

If you would like more info about the program you can call Genice Harris at 850-606-5202 or harrisg@leoncountyfl.gov by Mon 2 Feb, or you can also call the UGA Thomas County Extension Office, R.J. Byrne, at 229.225.4130 or uge4275@uga.edu

Due to the popularity of our annual late summer/early fall Tree ID Lab with foliated specimens, we’re offering for the 3rd year a similar program on identifying deciduous trees in winter, using twigs, buds, bark & form. The program will entail an indoor lab and field hike. Our goal is to teach you how to identify about 50 of N FL’s most prevalent deciduous species. We will use fresh specimens in our indoor lab. Bring a hand lens or magnifying glass.

Wednesday 4 February
9:00 – 12:00 am
Leon Extension AuditoriumTwig & Bud Indoor Lab

Monday 9 February
1:00 – 4:00 pm
Elinor-Klapp Phipps ParkBark & Form Field Hike

Free for UF Extension volunteers (Master Wildlife Conservationists and Master Gardeners)

$20 total for professionals (materials, CEUs, Certificate of Completion for attending all 6 hours of training)

$10 total for citizens (materials and Certificate of Completion for attending all 6 hours of training)

Contact Genice Harris at 850-606-5202 or harrisg@leoncountyfl.gov by Mon 2 Feb to register for either or both events, and for CEUs

Master Gardener Class Offered - Deadline Extended!

New Deadline - December 9th, 2008
Info below and Registration form here.

Thomas County Extension will offer a Master Gardener Class beginning Tuesday, January 20, 2009. The course is open to residents of Thomas, Brooks, Colquitt, Mitchell, and Grady Counties. All classes will be held at the Thomas County Extension Office, 227 West Jefferson Street. The classes will be held on January 20th , 22nd, 23rd, and starting January 26th, every Monday and Wednesday from 9:00 a.m. until 11:30 a.m. for 10 weeks, ending on Wednesday April 1st.

The Georgia Master Gardener Program is a volunteer recruitment and training program of the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension. The main purpose is to train volunteers to provide unbiased, research-based, environmentally sound, horticulture information to the public. Those completing the course will have a much greater knowledge of horticultural practices and will be expected to share their knowledge by volunteering 50 hours back into the community.

Most potential Master Gardeners want to know what community service entails. Community service is any activity in which your newly acquired horticultural knowledge is shared with others. These activities may include advising other citizens with caring for their landscapes, writing horticultural newsletters, working with youth, assisting with beautification projects, judging school projects dealing with agriculture, or civic and garden club presentations.

Most classes will be taught by extension agents and specialists from the University of Georgia. The following classes will be taught:

Introduction to the Master Gardener Program

Soil and Plant Nutrition

Botany/Plant Physiology

Basic Entomology/Pathology

Weed ID and Control

Using the Pest Control Handbook

Vegetable and Herb Gardening

Insects and Diseases of Vegetables

Herbaceous Ornamentals

Selecting Woody Ornamentals

Trees

Maintenance of Woody Ornamentals

Turf Selection and Maintenance

Diseases of Turf and Ornamentals

Developing a Waterwise Landscape

Insects of Turf and Ornamentals

Composting and Mulching

Fruit Gardening

Structural and Household Pests

Nuisance Wildlife

Registration fee for this class is $125.00 which includes a copy of the Georgia Master Gardener Handbook. A minimum enrollment of 10 participants is required to conduct this training. Maximum enrollment is 25 participants.

The deadline to apply is Tuesday, December 2, 2009. Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. If you have any questions, please contact R.J. Byrne, Thomas County Extension Agent at 229.225.4130 or rjbyrne@uga.edu.