Showing posts with label agriculture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label agriculture. Show all posts

Friday, October 29, 2010

Scale Insects















Check out the photo. Do you see the white scale insect on this Pittosporum? That is a Cottony Cushion Scale insect at the adult stage. Pittosporum and citrus plants are typically their hosts.

Control can be done in a few ways:
- with horticultural oil, however crawler stage is the best time
- pruning, remove and destroy infested branches
- natural enemies such as tiny wasps



For more information visit:

You can also email us at the office (uge4275@uga.edu) or visit with our Master Gardeners for more help.

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

2010-11 FL-GA GAME MANAGEMENT UPDATE SERIES

A program for landowners, managers, outdoors men and women and others interested in game habitat management, hunting, and best natural resource management practices brought to you by Leon and Thomas County Extension Offices.

Register online at http://flgagmus.eventbrite.com
All information such as maps, schedules, etc, will be on the registration site.

10 September, 2010: White-tailed Deer Management, Taylor County Extension Office, Perry, FL

22 October, 2010: Vegetation Management for Upland Wildlife, Jones Ecological Center at Ichaway Plantation, Baker County, Newton, GA

4 February, 2011:Financing Conservation on Private Lands, Leon County Extension Office, Tallahassee, FL

18 March, 2011: Nuisance Animal Control, Trulock Plantation, Thomas County, GA

1 April, 2011: Wildlife Food Plots, Alford Greenway, Leon County, FL

29 April, 2011: Vegetation Management for Upland Wildlife, Dixie Plantation, Jefferson County, Monticello, FL

13 May, 2011: Balancing Timber & Wildlife for Upland Game, Cobey Property, Gadsden County, FL

Contact Thomas County Extension Office (229.225.4130) or Leon County Extension Office (850-606-5200) or visit the registration site if you have any questions.

Monday, October 11, 2010

3 Cornered Alfafa Hopper damage in peanuts

Look at the photo and see the girdeling above my finger. This is were the three cornered alfafa hopper fed. The leisions above are eggs deposited by the female.
Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.3

Thursday, June 10, 2010

June Insect Management Calendar

Shrubs



Aphids (Crape myrtle, etc.) – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Armored scales – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Citrus whitefly (gardenia and other plants) – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Wax Scales (Japanese, Florida, or Indian wax scale) – Scout & treat with insecticide if necessary

Lantana lacebug – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Spittlebugs on hollies & other woody plants – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Twospotted spider mite – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Trees

Bagworms – Treat with insecticide if necessary



Cottony maple scale – Treat with insecticide if necessary



Dogwood borer – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Insect galls on oaks and maple – Prune out galls if necessary

Lecanium scale on oak – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Turf

Chinch Bugs in St. Augustine and other turf – Scout and treat with insecticide if necessary

Fire Ants – Treat with insecticide

Mole crickets – Scout for this insect to determine if treatment will be needed in late June or early July.

Spittlebugs – Scout for this insects. Treatment is not usually necessary in turf unless you see insect injury

White Grubs – Begin treatments in late June or early July

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Cogongrass - Invasive Weed



University of Georgia Thomas County Ag Agent and Warnell School of Forestry specialist discuss cogongrass.
Visit www.thomascountyextension.com or www.cogongrass.org for more information.
Key Identification Features of Cogongrass
****
Flower/Seed head

Cylindrical in shape
2-8 inches in length (total flower or seed head)
Silvery white in color
Light fluffy dandelion-like seeds
Blooms from late March to mid June (flower timing depends somewhat on local climate)
*******
Leaves

Blades up to 6 feet long
About 1 inch wide
Whitish, prominent midrib, that is often off center
Margins finely serrate
Some leaves are very erect, but some may droop or lie flat
Often light yellowish-green in color
Could have a reddish cast in fall/winter or brown after frost or freeze
****
Plant Base

No apparent stem
Leaves appear to arise directly from or close to the ground
Overlapping sheaths give a rounded appearance to the plant base
All vegetation doesn't arise from one dense clump, instead the plants are more spread out
Light-green to yellowish in color, or could be reddish
Often a lot of thatch around base
****
Leaf collar/Ligule

Ligule is a thin-fringed membrane
Leaf sheaths overlapping, giving the plant a round appearance
Hairy (the ligule is the most hairy part of the plant, the plant base may also be somewhat hairy)
****
Rhizome/Roots

Dense mat
Many sharp points
Covered in flaky scales
Bright white under scales
Strongly segmented
****
Whole Plant

Densely growing patches
Tall grass (up to six feet, averaging 3-4 feet)
Circular infestations
Plants often turn brown in winter (at least partially, but may depend on local climate)

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Ground or Digger Bees Attack Lawns

The first sign of ground or digger bees in lawns may be strange little mounds of soil with a hole nearby. The ground bees will be flying over this area. Ground bees are solitary bees that dig and nest in the ground. These bees live one per hole but there may be many holes in an area creating ground bee communities. There are many types of ground bees that vary in color and range from one-half to three-quarter inch in length. Some types of solitary wasps live like this as well.

Female ground bees dig nests in the ground up to six or so inches deep in which to raise young. The bees pile earth around the sides of the hole. These bees can be very active in March and April. The female ground bee stocks the nest with pollen and nectar to feed the young bees. Some solitary wasps stock their nests with insects.

Ground bees typically cause little problem. The digging should not be enough to damage the lawn. The bees are not very aggressive and probably will not sting. You should be able to work and mow grass around them with few problems. People that are allergic to bee stings may want to be cautious when working around the bees.

We do not recommend chemical controls for ground bees or wasps. These bees can be beneficial - serving to pollinate plants or destroy harmful insects. They will probably only be around for four to six weeks and then disappear until next year.

If you must control them, use cultural controls.

* Ground bees like dry soils. Water the soil when bees first become active. Apply one inch of water once a week if it does not rain.
* Ground bees nest in dry areas where the grass is thin. Find and correct the problems making the turf thin. This may involve soil sampling, irrigation, soil aeration or other practices.
* Find ways to thicken the turf in these areas to reduce ground bee problems. Know the needs of the turf grass and meet them!
* In areas that will not grow grass, mulch the area.

If you must use a pesticide, watch during the day to see where the holes are located. After dark, dust these areas with carbaryl (sold under the name Sevin and other names) dust. A dust insecticide should cling to the bee’s body better than a spray. Keep people and pets out of the area while it is being treated.

The bees are not generally harmful and pesticides are toxic. The cure may be worse than the problem. Try to put up with the bees if you can. These bees may be difficult to control and may return year to year. If you have ongoing problems with them, follow all recommendations very carefully. See this site where I found much of this information http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html

There is one large caution in connection with ground bees and wasps. Ground bees are not aggressive but can look like other bees and wasps that are very aggressive and harmful. Make absolutely certain that you are not dealing with a yellow jacket or bumble bee nest. Both of these insects can literally cover you with stings very quickly. They can also have extremely large nests in Georgia. If you ever get into trouble with these, run until you escape them. Running inside may help. Do not stop to swat, roll on the ground, etc.

Before you begin control of any stinging insect, make certain of your pest. This or other websites can help you identify the lawn invader http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/plantclinic/documents/t-10-waspsandbees.pdf.

One difference between ground bees and other bees or wasps is that ground bees live by themselves and make many holes in the ground. Yellow jackets and bumble bees have many insects per hole. Use the following from Dr. Will Hudson, UGA Entomologist, as a guide for identification.

Many holes with one 1 bee per hole = solitary bees (like ground bees) that sting only as a last resort.

One hole, many bees = social bees (like yellow jackets and bumble bees). Keep away! These are non-reproductive workers that will sacrifice themselves in defense of the nest.

For insects other than ground bees, you may want to hire a pest control company or a wildlife removal company. They should have the training and equipment to do the job properly.


For more information:

Call your local Extension Agent at (800) ASK-UGA1 or locate your local Extension Office at http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/statewide.cfm

Saturday, April 17, 2010

The Management and Use of Bahiagrass

Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum Flugge) is a long-lived, perennial warm season grass that is grown extensively in the southeastern United States (Figure 1). It is most commonly used as a pasture species, but can be used for hay production, erosion control, and wildlife habitat. Bahiagrass can also be used in "sod-based rotation" sequences that have been found to suppress pest problems (nematode and disease issues) in crops such as peanuts.

Bahiagrass is a deep-rooted, sod-forming species that is well adapted to a wide range of soils and conditions in this region. It spreads by short, stout stolons and is a prolific seed producing plant. Bahiagrass will grow on soils too poorly drained for bermudagrass, is more shade tolerant than bermudagrass, and can be used in woodland pastures (silvopasture).

For more info visit this
link.

Saturday, March 13, 2010

March Tips for Ornamentals and Lawn

Here is a few tips from our UGA Thomas County Master Gardeners for the month of March.

• If you want flowers on your cactus, plant it in a small pot. Most cacti bloom sooner if root bound.

• Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of spring and new growth.

• Apply a pre-emergent herbicide before lawn weeds get started. These chemicals work by preventing the seed from germinating. It is important that the herbicides be applied in early spring, before growth of the weed seedlings.

• Variegated plants can help add the illusion of light to a dark area. Shade-loving ground covers such as variegated liriope. Ivies, euonymous and hosta, can be very effective for this.

• Shrubs and trees in the home landscape break up sound waves and reduce the nerve-shattering noise of modern society. Plant some new shrubs and trees this spring to improve the beauty and ambiance of your home.

• If you haven’t done it already, check stored tools and outdoor furniture for signs of rust. Remove any surface rust with steel wool, and paint with rust-inhibitive paint.

• If your tiller turns over sluggishly in spring, before trying to start it, move it to a sunny location and cover it with a black garbage bag for half an hour. A few minutes of solar heating will warm up the fluids and make starting easier.

• Some gardeners start seedlings in vermiculite purchased at garden supply stores, but this medium does not contain the nutrients needed for sustained growth, so seedlings should be transplanted to soil when the second pair of true leaves form.

• Catnip is a hardy plant, but grow it in a large pot or tub to contain its invasive growth.

• Don’t buy more chemicals than you can use in a season - - the smaller the bottle, the better. If you overbought in the past and have aged garden chemicals you no longer use, dispose of them according to local regulations. Do not pour them down the drain or into the ground as this can pollute the water systems, damage the soil and possibly injure or kill plants, people and animals that may come in contact with the chemicals.

• A child’s first garden should include sunflowers from seeds. The large seeds sprout quickly and dependably, and the strong seedlings can push their way through crusted soil. If you are shooting for record sunflowers, your plants will need to top 20 feet in height with seed-head diameters of 2 feet to be in the running.

• Cover old stumps with soil to help hasten decay.

• Turn the compost pile and add manure.

• The most common nematodes are saprophytes that feed on decaying organic matter. They play a critical role maintaining the balance of nature in returning nutrients to the soil.

• Bluebells are superb for naturalizing in the same manner as daffodils but prefer a shadier location and will bloom even where they get no direct sun at all

• As tulip, narcissus and other large bulbs begin to emerge set pansy plants between them for added color.

• If weeds occur in bulb beds, do not cover them by cultivation. Pull them by hand so the bulbs and roots will not be disturbed.

• Don’t forget to fertilize naturalized bulbs in the spring as leaves emerge. Do not mow the area until the bulb foliage begins to die back.

• In your flower arrangements, avoid mixing cut daffodils with tulips. Daffodils produce a chemical “slime” that injures tulip blooms. If you wish to use two flowers in an arrangement, place the daffodils in another container for a day after cutting, then rinse off the stems and add to the vase of tulips. Adding 1 tablespoon of activated charcoal or 6 drops of bleach to each quart of water also helps.

• Reposition stepping stones that have heaved or sunk below grass level. Lift them up, spread sand in the low areas, and replace the rocks. A bed of sand under the stones will aid drainage and decrease having to do it again next year.

• Be aware that a brown plastic material that looks and feels like natural burlap, but does not break down in the soil, is now being used to wrap root balls of balled and burlapped plants. Synthetic materials enclosing the roots of trees and shrubs must be completely removed to ensure success of the transplants.

• Potted azaleas, available through Easter, will flower for two to three weeks, if the soil is kept slightly moist. Display in a cool (60 degrees F) bright location, and remove withered flowers. Unless you have room to experiment, discard when blooms fade since most florist azaleas are not hardy enough to be established outdoors.

• Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts.

• Boxwood should be pruned by thinning the outer foliage of the plant and cutting back the branches to retain desired height.

• Prune spring-flowering shrubs after flowering is completed.

• Plant roses and bare-root shrubs while they are still dormant about four weeks before the average date of the late frost.

• Propagate deciduous shrubs, such as forsythia and winter jasmine, now by ground layering.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Pesticide Training 04/07/2010

Register online at http://pesticide04072010.eventbrite.com

Cost: $10 at the door
Date: 04/07/2010
Time: 9AM to 12PM
Location: Thomas County Extension Office
For more info contact uge4275@uga.edu or 229.225.4130.

This training will be for persons interested in obtaining
(1) pesticide credit hours [commercial and private] and
(2) also persons needing a private pesticide license (must be used in producing agriculture commodities, ie: row crops, forestry)

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Harvesting, Cleaning and Curing Gourds

More and more home gardeners are growing gourds for use in dried floral arrangements, bird houses, etc. The easy part is raising the gourds, the hard part is to determine when to pick them. If vines die prematurely before the fruit becomes hard it will be difficult to keep these for a very long period. In order to be successful with gourd storage, the gourds need to ripen on the vine. The best indication of a ripe gourd is the withered condition of the stem. Immature gourds that have frozen will not keep if storage is attempted.

There are several different types of gourds and each requires special handling methods. The most common Lagenaria gourds are often referred to as the dipper, caveman’s club, Giant bottle, Powder Horn, or Martin gourd. If fruits are dirty or dusty they can be washed in a mild soapy water and then rinsed with a solution of one part household bleach to ten parts water. Place gourds in a warm spot with good ventilation and out of direct sunlight until completely dry. Mature Lagenaria gourds may only require curing, if so, place in a spot with a temperature of 60 to 85 degrees F and with low humidity. Immature Lagenarias may be hung by a string attached to the stem and placed in a well ventilated, out-of-the-way place since they may require several months to completely cure.

If gourds are to be painted, shellacked, waxed or lacquered the surface must be completely dry. The Lagenarias may have a surface mold present and this can be removed before painting or waxing by soaking in warm water for a few minutes and then the mold can be removed by scraping with a knife blade. Dry gourd again before spraying with acrylic resin paint or waxed with a good liquid floor wax is applied.

Luffa cylindrical, also called the sponge or dish rag gourd, is grown mainly for the tough, fibrous netting that remains after the pulpy flesh is removed from mature fruit. The fibrous netting makes excellent sponges that are valued for use in the bath or as dish and pot scrubbers. Other important uses of the spongy material have been marine steam engine filters, doormats, table mats, mattress or shoulder pad stuffing, and for absorbing sound.

Luffas that are allowed to mature on the vine will turn from green to a dark tan or brown. At this time the internal fiber is mature and the gourd can be stored in a cool dry place until further processing of the gourd can be done.

The basic method for preparing the sponge material is to immerse the dry, mature fruit in water for a few days to allow the skin and flesh to soften so that it can be easily removed. Some additional drying may be required before the seeds will separate.

Once cleansed of seeds and flesh, the fibrous network is dried and, for some purposes bleached in hydrogen peroxide or one part bleach to nine parts water if a whiter color is desired. After soaking in bleach, rinse sponge and dry in full sun.

Cucurbita gourds (Apple, Bell, Egg, finger {Holy Crown}, Pear, Spoon, etc) usually ripen before other types and the fruit is ripe when the outside shell of the fruit has become hard. Lagenaria gourds on the other hand are ripe when they change colors from green to tan, are lightweight and have a firm shell.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Stop Blossom-End Rot Now, It's Easier Now Than Later

Too many tomatoes and bell peppers grown in home gardens are lost each year to a condition called blossom-end rot. Blossom -end rot is a disorder found on fruit near the blossom end and first appears as a darkened, sunken, leathery scar. This condition usually causes the fruit to ripen prematurely and makes it worthless.

Blossom-end rot can be caused by several factors and the severity of this condition can be compounded when two or more of these factors interact with each other. It is known that inadequate calcium levels in the fruit can cause this condition and a low soil calcium level in combination with inadequate soil can compound the situation. Severely pruned tomato plants are more prone to develop blossom-end rot than unpruned plants.

In order to control blossom-end rot, the home gardener will need to take several steps and one needs t0 start early, even before the crop is planed if his condition is to be prevented.

Steps to control blossom-end rot:

1. Test the soil early in the spring and apply dolomitic lime if needed. This should be done several weeks before planting.

2. In gardens where this condition has been severe in past seasons, also broadcast five lbs. of dolomitic lime per 100 square feet just before planting and plow the ground six(6) to eight(8) inches deep.

3. Mulch plants with black or organic mulch.

4. Apply irrigation water to keep soil uniformly moist throughout the season.

5. Apply a calcium spray, first applied when fruits are first visible can help prevent this disorder. Mix four tablespoons of calcium chloride per gallon of water. Spray plants until solution begins to run off the leaves. Three applications are recommended at seven(7) day intervals. Calcium can be obtained at your local garden center or supply store.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

COFFEE GROUNDS FOR FERTILIZER

Used coffee grounds are a fertilizer for your plants and a great addition to Compost piles. You may add them to either existing or brand new plant beds.

Many gardeners compost their leaves, grass clippers and trimmings from their yard. The soil can be improved and more productive by mixing organic matter into the soil. Kitchen waste such as vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, tea leaves and eggshells may be added to the compost pile. Coffee grounds added to the compost pile help maintain the nitrogen balance which is import for decomposition of the organic materials in compost.

Coffee grounds can be applied directly to acid loving plants like blueberries, hydrangeas, azaleas, roses and tomato plants. Ground coffee is high in nitrogen, making it a good mulch for fast growing vegetables. Coffee contains a number of substances that promote healthy plant growth. Work coffee grounds into the soil so that they don’t form a crust on the top.

Coffee grounds are a source of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium. These nutrients are beneficial to the plants in your garden. Using the grounds is an environmentally friendly and cost effective way to nourish plants.

Increase carrot and radish harvest by mixing seeds with dry coffee grounds before planting the seed.

Coffee grounds may be used on indoor plants too or use left over coffee to water indoor plants.

An analysis of coffee grounds was performed in 1995 by the University of Washington, College of Forest Resources, the


Primary Nutrients are:
Nitrogen 1.45%
Phosphorus not a significant amount
Potassium 1204 UG/G


Secondary Nutrients
Calcium 389 UG/G
Magnesium 448 UG/G
Sulfur high UG /G


Terms: UG/G=microgram/gram

In summary, coffee grounds can lower pH and add organic matter to soil. Coffee grounds can be sourced from your home or you may be able to find used grounds at your local restaurant or coffee shop.

TAKING SOIL SAMPLES

Does your soil have the necessary nutrients for a lush lawn and beautiful gardens? Do not guess about your lawn’s and gardens’ fertility—have your soil tested!

To get good soil samples first make sure your sampling tools are clean ;then take soil from a minimum of ten(10) random locations in the sample area and mix together in a clean container. For lawns sample to a depth of four (4) inches and for gardens, ornamentals, and mixed fruit trees and wildlife plots collect samples to a depth of six (6) inches. Cut a thin slice about ¼ inch thick, two inches wide and to the depth specified above. Combine and mix samples and let dry. Place the soil samples in the UGA soil sample bags available at your County Extension Office. The County Extension Office will send the samples to the UGA Soil Testing Lab and once the tests are completed you will receive a Soil Test Report which will provide an interpretation of all soil tests done and recommendations concerning appropriate nutrient and lime recommendations.


Soils can be tested any time of year. Late fall and winter are excellent times to prepare for spring since it takes two to three months for recommended nutrients such as lime or sulfur to change the soil’s pH. Once medium or high fertility levels are achieved, the soil should be tested every two (2) to three (3) years.


To view the University of Georgia’s publication on soil sampling visit:

http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C896/C896.htm

Friday, February 12, 2010

TURFGRASS FERTILIZATION TIME? NOT NECESSARILY

Hey, I wanted to pass on this great article Paul wrote on fertilizing your yards. It is very informative and will help you make better decisions in the landscape. You can also find a month by month to-do turf calendar at our website: http://www.ugaextension.com/thomas/anr/index.html



By Paul Pugliese, Bartow County Agriculture Extension Agent

March is usually the time of year that local garden centers begin major advertising campaigns to sell lawn fertilizers. But depending on the type of grass you have, it may be too early to start fertilizing your lawn. In general, the best time to fertilize a lawn is when it is actively growing.

Fescue should be fed in the fall

Fescue lawns and other cool-season grasses that don't go dormant should be fertilized in the fall (October) and spring (March). Most other lawns, including bermudagrass, zoysia, centipede and other warm-season grasses that go dormant in winter, should not be fertilized until late spring through mid-summer (May to August). Fertilizing now would be a waste of time and money.

Why shouldn't you fertilize warm-season grasses when they are dormant? First, when grasses are dormant, their roots are not able to absorb or use the nutrients from fertilizers. By the time the grass does begin actively growing, most of the nitrogen you applied will have been lost from the soil.

Don't feed the weeds

Also, fertilizing while the grass is dormant actually encourages more winter weeds, because you are fertilizing the weeds instead of the lawn. Without competition from the lawn, these weeds will grow faster and become more prolific as a result of dormant fertilizer applications.

Lastly, fertilizing lawns during their transition into dormancy in the fall or out of dormancy in the spring may encourage lawn growth that is more likely to be injured from winter kill. Bare spots and thinning of the lawn as well as delay in spring green-up may occur when lawns are forced to grow when they should be dormant.

Combo products not the answer

So, should you apply convenient "weed and feed" products that combine a
pre-emergent herbicide and fertilizer in one application? Unfortunately, the ideal time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide actually contradicts the ideal time to apply fertilizer for warm-season lawns. These products are intended for fescue and other cool-season grasses. In north Georgia, the recommended application window is Sept. 1-15 and March 1-20 to maximize the effectiveness of pre-emergent herbicides.

The application timing for these products is critical since they must be applied before annual weeds germinate in spring and fall. It's always better to apply
pre-emergent herbicides a little earlier rather than too late. And don't forget to activate them by watering them into the lawn.

For
bermudagrass and other warm-season grasses, buy fertilizer that is separate from the pre-emergent herbicide. Apply each at their recommended times.

Start with a soil test

A soil test is always a good starting point before investing in fertilizer or lime. Your local University of Georgia County Extension office [Thomas County - 229.225.4130] can test your soil and provide an exact pH and nutrient analysis with recommendations on how much fertilizer and lime to apply, if any is needed. Contact your local Extension office by calling 1-800-ASK-
UGA1. A soil test kit can also be ordered online at www.soiltest123.com

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Burn Permits

Did you know that you need a burn permit for to burn yard debris?

It is very easy to get a burn permit from the Georgia Forestry Commission.
Simply dial 877.OK2.BURN (877.652.2876) or your local forestry unit (Thomas County is 229.225.4003), or visit
www.gatrees.org

Here is a little part of what you will see when you visit
http://gatrees.org/OnlinePermits/

From this page you can apply for a Daily Permit. See boxes below.

From this page you can obtain a burning permit for yard debris type burns such as leaf piles and small limb piles (approximately 6' x 6' or smaller). Fires should not be initiated before 8:00 am and should be completely extinguished before dark. In highly populated areas burning should be conducted from 10:00am until 30 minutes before dark. If you are burning large brush piles or conducting an acreage burn please contact your local county office of the Georgia Forestry Commission.

Hope this helps!





Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Master Gardener Class - Rescheduled

Thomas County Extension will offer a Master Gardener Class beginning in March 2010. All classes will be held at the Thomas County Extension Office, 227 West Jefferson Street. The class has been reschduled for March 2010 so there is more time to sign up if you missed the previous deadline!
The new deadline is Thursday, February 25, 2010.

Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. You may download an application here.

The Georgia Master Gardener Program is a volunteer recruitment and training program of the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension. The main purpose is to train volunteers to provide unbiased, research-based, environmentally sound, horticulture information to the public. Those completing the course will have a much greater knowledge of horticultural practices and will be expected to share their knowledge by volunteering 50 hours back into the community.

Most potential Master Gardeners want to know what community service entails. Community service is any activity in which your newly acquired horticultural knowledge is shared with others. These activities may include advising other citizens with caring for their landscapes, writing horticultural newsletters, working with youth, assisting with beautification projects, judging school projects dealing with agriculture, or civic and garden club presentations.

Most classes will be taught by extension agents and specialists from the University of Georgia. The following classes will be taught:

Introduction to the Master Gardener Program
Soil and Plant Nutrition
Botany/Plant Physiology
Basic Entomology/Pathology
Weed ID and Control
Using the Pest Control Handbook
Vegetable and Herb Gardening
Insects and Diseases of Vegetables
Herbaceous Ornamentals
Selecting Woody Ornamentals
Trees
Maintenance of Woody Ornamentals
Turf Selection and Maintenance
Diseases of Turf and Ornamentals
Developing a Waterwise Landscape
Insects of Turf and Ornamentals
Composting and Mulching
Fruit Gardening
Structural and Household Pests
Nuisance Wildlife

Registration fee for this class is $125.00 which includes a copy of the Georgia Master Gardener Handbook. A minimum enrollment of 10 participants is required to conduct this training. Maximum enrollment is 20 participants. More details on the course will be given during sign-up and be posted on our blog and website.

The deadline to apply is Thursday, February 25, 2010. Applications may be obtained at Thomas County Extension Office at 227 West Jefferson Street or by visiting our website www.thomascountyextension.com. You may download an application here.

If you have any questions, please contact R.J. Byrne, Thomas County Extension Agent at 229.225.4130 or rjbyrne@uga.edu.

Pesticide Training - Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

Pre-register by calling 229.225.4130

Cost: $10
Time: 9AM to 12PM
Location: Thomas County Extension Office

For more info contact rjbyrne@uga.edu. This training will be for persons interested in obtaining pesticide credit hours and also persons needing a private pesticide license (must be used in producing agriculture commodities, ie: row crops, forestry).

Monday, January 25, 2010

Do you have a garden plan for 2010?

So if you are planning to plant a garden this year in Thomas County, then let me help you out some.

Take some time to think about what has worked well for you this past year and also maybe think about trying something new.

Its time to pull soil samples if you have not yet done so. We have soil test bags in our office, just bring in a sample to transfer to the sample bag. A basic soil test [pH, P, K, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese] is currently $6.00.

Visit our site to find a very helpful garden calendar here:
http://www.ugaextension.com/thomas/anr/VegetableandFruitGardening.html

As always, you can contact us for more help if you need to.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Composting: Recycling Landscape Trimmings

What do you need to know about composting landscape trimings?
Visit this publication to find out: http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C981/C981.html

Citizens throughout Georgia are recycling newspaper, cans, glass and plastic in an effort to divert these materials from the waste stream. Another important part of waste reduction involves recycling leaves, lawn clippings, and tree and shrub trimmings instead of placing them curbside for the county or municipality to pick up. These landscape riches from Mother Nature can be easily recycled and turned into nutrient-rich organic matter right in your backyard through a process called composting.

This publication answers some commonly asked questions about composting.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Flowering Bulbs for Georgia Gardens

Visit this link below for a new publication on "Flowering Bulbs for Georgia Gardens"


A wide variety of bulbs grow well in Georgia. Most are grown for their flowers and some for their foliage. They are grown as pot plants, in shrub borders, naturalistic plantings and in mass displays. Bulbs offer a certain magic to the landscape virtually unrivaled by other plants.