Africanized bees in Georgia

Please read the information below from Dr. Keith Delaplane, Extension Apiculturist, regarding first documented record of Africanized bees in Georgia.

For more information please read below and you can also visit this page for a handout.

A human fatality occurred from a massive bee sting incident near Albany, GA on Oct, 11, 2010. The victim was operating a tractor and mower, aggravated a nest of bees, and received over 100 stings. Bee samples were collected by personnel of the Georgia Department of Agriculture and submitted to laboratories managed by the Florida Department of Agriculture with capacity for performing the appropriate diagnoses. On 20 October we received confirmation from Florida that the bees associated with the Albany stinging fatality are in fact Africanized honey bees (AHBs). This constitutes the first record of Africanized bees in Georgia. A press release is soon forthcoming from the Georgia Department of Agriculture, and you can anticipate questions in the days and weeks ahead.


Africanized bees, sometimes called “killer bees,” have been present in the United States since October 1990. They have been confirmed in Florida since 2005. These bees are a sub-species of honey bee and capable of inter-breeding with the European honey bee well-known throughout Georgia as an important pollinator and producer of honey. Unfortunately, the African variety is extremely defensive and responds with a massive stinging reaction with little provocation.

1. Be cautious around places where Africanized bees are likely to nest, such as abandoned sheds, bee hive equipment, discarded tires and subterranean cavities.

2. If you are attacked, RUN AWAY. You may think this sounds silly, but experience has taught us that people do NOT run away. Instead, they stand and swat which simply escalates the defensive frenzy until it reaches lethal proportions.

3. Get inside a closed vehicle or building as fast as possible, and STAY there. Do not worry if a few bees follow you inside. Here’s another hard lesson we’ve learned. People do NOT stay inside a closed vehicle if a few bees follow them inside. Instead, they panic and flee back outside where tens of thousands of angry bees attack them. Maybe it’s a bizarre form of claustrophobia, but this pattern has repeated itself over and over in the stinging incidents we’ve monitored in Latin America and the Southwest USA. Get inside. Stay inside.

4. European bees and beekeepers are our best defense against AHBs. In response to Africanized honey bees, some communities may consider zoning restrictions against all forms of beekeeping. This essentially cedes territory to the enemy. Only gentle European bees can genetically dilute the defensive Africanized variety.

Citrus Leaf Miner

In the photo you can see off white lines in the leaf surface. This is a leaf off a satsuma tree, and it has been infested with the citrus leaf miner. The leaf miner makes tunnels between the upper and lower leaf surface. This is a common problem with citrus in our landscapes. They are attracted to new flushes of growth in citrus trees, so avoid heavy uses of nitrogen fertilizer.

Here is a good control guide from UC Davis on citrus leaf miners. We also have control recommendations on our website found here.

You can also email us at the office (uge4275@uga.edu) or visit with our Master Gardeners for more help.

Scale Insects

Check out the photo. Do you see the white scale insect on this Pittosporum? That is a Cottony Cushion Scale insect at the adult stage. Pittosporum and citrus plants are typically their hosts.

Control can be done in a few ways:

- with horticultural oil, however crawler stage is the best time

- pruning, remove and destroy infested branches

- natural enemies such as tiny wasps

For more information visit:

1. UGA's Urban Ag Scale info

2. UF's Scale Info

3. Scale Insects and Mealybugs on Ornamental Plants

You can also email us at the office (uge4275@uga.edu) or visit with our Master Gardeners for more help.

ARMYWORMS MARCH ACROSS GEORGIA LAWNS

By William G. Hudson

Almost every year in late summer, caterpillars invade turfgrass across Georgia. Damage to established turf is mostly aesthetic, but newly planted sod or sprigged areas can be severely damaged or even killed.

Several caterpillars can damage turfgrass, but in late summer most of the problems are caused by fall armyworms. Their favorite turf to feed upon is bermudagrass.

Eggs hatch in just days

Adult armyworm moths are active at night. Females lay eggs in masses of 50 to several hundred. Eggs hatch in a few days, and the young larvae begin to feed on leaf tissue. As the worms grow, they consume entire leaves of grass.
Armyworms are most active early and late in the day, spending the hotter hours down near the soil in the shade. Larvae feed for 2 to 3 weeks before pupating in the soil.

Moths emerge 10 to 14 days later. The entire life cycle -- from egg to adult moth -- takes about 28 days in the warm weather of August and September.

Weather conditions fuel the development of armyworms, said University of Georgia Assistant State Climatologist Pam Knox. Some UGA Cooperative Extension agents report this seaso as the worst they have seen in 25 years, she said.
"They devastate pastures and hayfields in locations across the state," Knox said.

Do the soap test

To see if worms are present, perform this simple test: Pour soapy water on the grass (one-half ounce of dishwashing soap per gallon of water). If the worms are present, they will quickly surface.

Controlling armyworms and other turf caterpillars is relatively simple once the problem is identified. The old standby carbaryl (Sevin) still works well, as do all the pyrethroids (pyrethroids are those active ingredients listed on a label that end in "-thrin").

If the worms are detected while they are still small, Dipel or other Bacillus thurengiensis-based products provide good control.

Treat at night

Since armyworms are most active late in the day and at night, applications should be made as late in the evening as possible. It is not necessary to water after application, but an application rate of 20 to 25 gallons of solution per acre as a minimum will ensure good coverage. Do not cut the grass for 1 to 3 days after application.

For more information on maintaining turfgrasses in Georgia, visit www.Georgiaturf.com.

June Insect Management Calendar

Shrubs

Aphids (Crape myrtle, etc.) – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Armored scales – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Citrus whitefly (gardenia and other plants) – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Wax Scales (Japanese, Florida, or Indian wax scale) – Scout & treat with insecticide if necessary

Lantana lacebug – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Spittlebugs on hollies & other woody plants – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Twospotted spider mite – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Trees

Bagworms – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Cottony maple scale – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Dogwood borer – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Insect galls on oaks and maple – Prune out galls if necessary

Lecanium scale on oak – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Turf

Chinch Bugs in St. Augustine and other turf – Scout and treat with insecticide if necessary

Fire Ants – Treat with insecticide

Mole crickets – Scout for this insect to determine if treatment will be needed in late June or early July.

Spittlebugs – Scout for this insects. Treatment is not usually necessary in turf unless you see insect injury

White Grubs – Begin treatments in late June or early July

Ground or Digger Bees Attack Lawns

The first sign of ground or digger bees in lawns may be strange little mounds of soil with a hole nearby. The ground bees will be flying over this area. Ground bees are solitary bees that dig and nest in the ground. These bees live one per hole but there may be many holes in an area creating ground bee communities. There are many types of ground bees that vary in color and range from one-half to three-quarter inch in length. Some types of solitary wasps live like this as well.

Female ground bees dig nests in the ground up to six or so inches deep in which to raise young. The bees pile earth around the sides of the hole. These bees can be very active in March and April. The female ground bee stocks the nest with pollen and nectar to feed the young bees. Some solitary wasps stock their nests with insects.

Ground bees typically cause little problem. The digging should not be enough to damage the lawn. The bees are not very aggressive and probably will not sting. You should be able to work and mow grass around them with few problems. People that are allergic to bee stings may want to be cautious when working around the bees.

We do not recommend chemical controls for ground bees or wasps. These bees can be beneficial - serving to pollinate plants or destroy harmful insects. They will probably only be around for four to six weeks and then disappear until next year.

If you must control them, use cultural controls.

* Ground bees like dry soils. Water the soil when bees first become active. Apply one inch of water once a week if it does not rain.
* Ground bees nest in dry areas where the grass is thin. Find and correct the problems making the turf thin. This may involve soil sampling, irrigation, soil aeration or other practices.
* Find ways to thicken the turf in these areas to reduce ground bee problems. Know the needs of the turf grass and meet them!
* In areas that will not grow grass, mulch the area.

If you must use a pesticide, watch during the day to see where the holes are located. After dark, dust these areas with carbaryl (sold under the name Sevin and other names) dust. A dust insecticide should cling to the bee’s body better than a spray. Keep people and pets out of the area while it is being treated.

The bees are not generally harmful and pesticides are toxic. The cure may be worse than the problem. Try to put up with the bees if you can. These bees may be difficult to control and may return year to year. If you have ongoing problems with them, follow all recommendations very carefully. See this site where I found much of this information http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html

There is one large caution in connection with ground bees and wasps. Ground bees are not aggressive but can look like other bees and wasps that are very aggressive and harmful. Make absolutely certain that you are not dealing with a yellow jacket or bumble bee nest. Both of these insects can literally cover you with stings very quickly. They can also have extremely large nests in Georgia. If you ever get into trouble with these, run until you escape them. Running inside may help. Do not stop to swat, roll on the ground, etc.

Before you begin control of any stinging insect, make certain of your pest. This or other websites can help you identify the lawn invader http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/plantclinic/documents/t-10-waspsandbees.pdf.

One difference between ground bees and other bees or wasps is that ground bees live by themselves and make many holes in the ground. Yellow jackets and bumble bees have many insects per hole. Use the following from Dr. Will Hudson, UGA Entomologist, as a guide for identification.

Many holes with one 1 bee per hole = solitary bees (like ground bees) that sting only as a last resort.

One hole, many bees = social bees (like yellow jackets and bumble bees). Keep away! These are non-reproductive workers that will sacrifice themselves in defense of the nest.

For insects other than ground bees, you may want to hire a pest control company or a wildlife removal company. They should have the training and equipment to do the job properly.


For more information:

Call your local Extension Agent at (800) ASK-UGA1 or locate your local Extension Office at http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/statewide.cfm

Insect Management Calendar for April

The following are insect pests that you might expect to see during April in Georgia. Become familiar with them so you will be able to recognize them in landscapes you visit.

We have included links to more information for many of these insect pests. Click on the insect names to find online resources that can help you to identify and manage these pests.

We have added notes after the name of the insects to explain what you should be doing for each insect: Treat with insecticide (if necessary) or Scouting or watching for the insects.

Shrubs

Aphids – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Azalea lace bug – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Azalea leaf miner– Treat with insecticide if necessary

Boxwood leaf miner – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Citrus whitefly (gardenia and other plants) – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Leaf feeding beetles on coreopsis, primrose and crapemyrtle – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Holly leafminer – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Tea scale and other armored scales – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Trees

Asian ambrosia beetle – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Bagworms – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Borers on maple – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Cottony maple scale – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Dogwood borer – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Insect galls on oaks and maple – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Lecanium scale on oak – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Spruce spider mite – Treat with insecticide if necessary

Turf

Mole crickets – Scout for this insect to determine if treatment will be needed later.

White Grubs – Scout for this insect to determine if treatment will be needed later.

For more information: Contact our office or visit our website - www.thomascountyextension.com

CARPENTER BEES

In the late-spring and early summer, homeowners often notice large, black bees hovering around the outside of their homes. These are probably carpenter bees searching for mates and favorable sites to construct their nests. Male carpenter bees are quite aggressive, often hovering in front of people who are around the nests. The males are quite harmless, however, since they lack stingers. Female carpenter bees can inflict a painful sting but seldom will unless they are handled or molested.

For more information visit - Carpenter Bees

or visit the UGA Honey Bee Program

Will club soda control fire ants?

I recently received this through an email list I am on and thought this would be good to pass on. This is from our working group on fire ant control.

The use of club soda as an ant mound drench likely will disappoint the user, because the chances of its working are slim to none. This so-called home-remedy was recently tested and found not to be effective. For a thorough discussion of the idea of club soda as a home remedy and how it has been debunked, view the following post from the blog Insects in the City: Club soda for your ants, Sir?

It is interesting how many different fire ant "cures" have been suggested. Many, but not all, of these have been scientifically tested in replicated university trials. The club soda home remedy, like many others, is attractive because it is environmentally sound and uses a readily available product. It has a basis in fact, because carbon dioxide in high concentrations is known to be lethal to many organisms. However, the quantity of carbon dioxide generated from a club soda drench would not be sufficient to replace the air in a colony that may extend 12 feet underground. The club soda drench might make the colony move since the fire ants do not like being disturbed. Also, the amount of club soda needed to kill any ants may be expensive! Find more information about home remedies at FAQ 1107, "Do any of the home remedies for eliminating imported fire ants work?" The eXtension fire ant resource area has information about safe and effective methods of fire ant control, including the Fire Ant Control Made Easy Video and the Managing Imported Fire Ants in Urban Areas Learning Lesson. You may want to try the Customized Fire Ant Management Decision Tool, which will help you develop your own fire ant management plan.

If you are curious about how much carbon dioxide occurs in club soda or any other carbonated drink, see Carbonation.

Name That Insect: Swallow Tail Larva

I have had several samples the past few days and they have all been the same insect. Well, larva actually, larva of the swallow tail butterfly.
The hosts of the giant swallow tail butterfly, Papilio cresphontes, include citrus, prickly ash, and hop trees. A common name of larva is the orange dog.

See the photos below to help you ID if your larva is the same.

Tree Workshop - Friday, April 17th

Thomas County Extension will be conducting an Urban Tree Workshop.

Come learn and participate in the Urban Tree Workshop at the Remington EMS on Friday, April, 17th starting at 8:30 AM. We will discuss tree pruning, health, identification, and selection. Hands-on exercises include proper pruning techniques and tree identification. Participants will also receive tree books and related materials. This class is meant to teach you how to prune properly, identify tree health issues, how to identify common trees in our region, and tree selection. Bring your pruners to practice your pruning!

This program is open to all interested. The cost is $25 which includes lunch, books, and materials. Category 24 and Private Pesticide credits will be given. Visit our website for more information – http://www.thomascountyexention.com/

Space is limited, so please pay by Wednesday, April 15th. Register by contacting the office at 229.225.4130 or email us at uge4275@uga.edu with the subject – Urban Tree Workshop. The office is located at 227 West Jefferson Street, across from the Thomas County Public library. For more information please contact R.J. Byrne.

Scouting for Hessian Fly in Georgia

Now is the time in central and southern Georgia to check susceptible wheat for Hessian fly infestation. Hessian fly is most in the pupal (flax seed stage) and will be emerging and laying eggs over the next few weeks.

It may be feasible to control or at least suppress re-infestation of Hessian fly in susceptible fields by a well-timed insecticide treatment of Karate
Z. This requires scouting and assessing the level of infestation.

This new guide provides photos and information for sampling and making a treatment decision.

Scouting for Hessian Fly in Georgia and Alabama

UGA Wheat Production Page

-David Buntin, Grain Crop Entomologist

Mosquito Control

With all the water we received in the area, mosquito's are sure to be a problem. Here are a few links to read about mosquito control.

"Stinging and Biting Pests of People" located here (with a PDF version available): http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/c782-w.html.

I also recommend the following three FACES articles, which have printable versions available for distribution if necessary.
"Tips to Keep Mosquitoes Away" -- http://georgiafaces.caes.uga.edu/getstory.cfm?storyid=3338
"Control Mosquito Larvae in the Water" -- http://georgiafaces.caes.uga.edu/getstory.cfm?storyid=1630
"Protect Yourself against Mosquito Baby Boom" -- http://georgiafaces.caes.uga.edu/getstory.cfm?storyid=1839

Tobacco Budworms Attacking Peanut Blooms

The budworm moth flight is currently heavy in the southwestern peanut production area. Larval populations are being reported at 6 to 8 per foot of row in some fields. They may be higher in other fields. It has been confirmed that there is heavy feeding on blooms by small worms and the absence of blooms where large larvae are present. It is critical that farmers and scouts check all fields for this behavior regardless of the lack of foliage loss as often observed through the open window of a truck. In fact, low amounts of foliage loss have been reported in fields with heavy bloom loss. This means the larger worms are eating the flower buds before they open. For other areas of the peanut belt the moth flight should follow soon so this should give ample time to confirm this budworm feeding behavior.

Steward and Tracer gives good to excellent control of budworms. Lannate gives good to excellent quick-kill control with short residual but, Lannate can be harsh on beneficials. Orthene gives fair to good control but, there is the potential for flaring mites. I have been informed that there should be an adequate supply of these insecticides warehoused in SW GA. NOTE: The pyrethroids are NOT appropriate insecticides for controlling tobacco budworms.

To avoid any confusion as we move through this moth flight, it would be wise to confirm the presence of budworms vs. corn earworms in a representative number of fields. Through time we may shift to an earworm moth flight. This would allow us to use some less expensive insecticides, such as the pyrethroids, when and if this occurs.

There are other worms in the mix. Some beet and fall armyworms are present in some fields. Even though no cutworms have been reported, they will be found in some fields. The tobacco budworm should be the main target in most cases.

If you need help ID'ing these pest, give us a call at 229.225.4130.

-R.J.